Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just did my gearbox oil change today and heck, might as well take a couple of pictures in case some of you guys are wondering how its being done.

before i continue, you have to bear in mind that ANY oil change can be a VERY dirty, messy and tiring job but think of the satisfaction and money saved. THat's what motivated me in the first place. I also felt that it would help me understand my car better :sly:

anyway... here goes... my FIRST gearbox oil change in my R32

gearbox01.jpg

I needed to get the car high up from the ground so that I will have plenty of room to move around. I thought of car jacks and found these steel ramps at cash converter for only $20!! Each of them holds a maximum weight of 850kg. It holds the car pretty high up off the ground and its great for future use in engine, diff oil change and brake flushing/bleeding as well as some underbody works.

PLEASE do remember to (1) handbrake, (2) get the car in gear and (3) chock the rear wheels of the car.

Recommended equipment:

gearbox02.jpg

Get a LONG wrench for that ALL-SO-IMPORTANT leverage(size 1/2 inch)

gearbox03.jpg

Get a pump and your new gearbox oil ready.

gearbox04.jpg

tools, torchlight, degreaser, rags, hose, vacuum cleaner :)

and NOW, the fun part begins....

when you are done with your warmups and body flexings... get under the car to the gearbox. There is a drain plug on the bottom centre of the gearbox, there is no way you can miss it.

gearbox10.jpg

It is IMPERATIVE that you undo the filler plug FIRST before the drain plug!! If you undo the drain plug first and got all the oil out and then realized that the filler plug is stuck... you can start building a display cabinet for your car :tool:

The drain plug is usually the harder of the 2 to undo... i had a bitch of a time trying to get it out... broke 1 wrench and decided to get the STRONGEST and THICKEST 1/2inch wrench i can find in Repco... the longer the leverage, the easier it is to undo the plug. Another recommendation i had was to undo both plugs just after a drive so that all compartments are still hot... but the downside of this is that you will have to be EXTREMELY careful of the cat, exhaust piping and the gearbox itself becos it will get freaking hot.

make sure you have at least a 5litres and above oil tray for the old oil once the plugs are undone.

gearbox05.jpg

when the old oil is draining from the gearbox, get to work on the 2 plugs.

gearbox07.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30665-r32-changing-gearbox-oil/
Share on other sites

Clean them both, esp the drain plug. You might noticed some metal shavings from the magnetic part of the plug, get them off... its normal wear-and-tear from the gearbox. Run a single layer of plumbing tape around the threaded end of the plug (not necessarily but i did it anyway...

gearbox08.jpggearbox09.jpg

once all the old oil is drained, put the drain plug back. How tight you want it is ALL dependable on yourself... gearbox oil can last for a pretty long time and its usually recommended that you get it changed once every 2 years (dun quote me on that). If you screw it tightly with a vengence, then you will probably end up cursing yourself more then... anyway, i tighten it with a vengence... :)

the rest of the work is pretty straightforward... pump in the new oil (filler hole) till it starts overflowing from the filler hole. once that's done, screw the filler plug back on... again with a vengence.

and wala... you got new gearbox oil...

btw, i recommend that you get your driver seat covered like i did... once any stray oil gets onto the seats, the stain and smell stays on...

gearbox06.jpg

next project for me is diff oil change... wanted to do it today as well but going to read up more on the redline oil specs first...

hope this helps

cheers

glenn

if you are sliding under the car with your head towards the back of the car.. the filler plug will be on the left side of the gear. If you can find the drain plug, run your left hand (careful when hot) along the gearbox and you will find the squarish filler plug. It sticks out like a sore thumb and there's no way you can miss it.

ask for the redlineoil .. chk out www.redlineoil.com.au for the nearest retail outlet near you.

run a search thru this forum and you will find more info on it.

tranmission filter? that i am not so sure and dun wanna give you bogus advice. run a search and see what you can find. there's no filter on a manual, only a tiny magnet on the drain plug to attract all the stray metal shavings.

  • 1 year later...

i prefer to use the Motul range of oils...

they just released their LSD oil in 1L containers!! :D (instead of 10L drums)

Also can anybody confirm this:

gearbox in rb20 takes 2L, diff takes 1L??

engine - 300V Chrono (10w40 100% synthetic ester)

gearbox - Gear 300 (75w90 100% synthetic)

diff - Gear FF Competition

brakes - RBF600 (DOT4/600, 312 degree boiling point!)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...