Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry i dont know much abotu wastegates could someone explain to me how a wastegate works, ie: if you have a 12psi spring in your wastegate does that mean even if your boostcccontroller is set to 20psi, you only get 12 pounds of boost or how exactly does a wastegate work, does it slow a car down???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306669-wastegates-and-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

The waste gate is a flap that opens to bypass some of the exhaust gas from the turbo. it has a signal line (an air line) from the intake piping, that fills with pressure when you come onto boost. when you reach the boost pressure your wastegate spring/boost controller is set at, there will be enough pressure to open up the wastegate, effectively stopping your turbo from boosting too much.

If you have a 12psi spring in your wastegate and just run a air line to the wastegate, your car will run 12psi. (all things being equal).

if you have a boost controller in there, it 'bleeds' off some of the air in the signal line, so the wastegate will take more pressure to open. i.e. 20psi instead of 12.

but its not advised to run 20 psi (some will say even 12) on a stock turbo, especially with no tune.

i see you have an R32, 20psi on a stock rb20 is a little risky too...

Well thanks for that information, btw i have a r32 without an engine atm XD, still buying an engine.

So say i get a stock rb26dett, i have an external wastegate fitted with a 12psi spring, and my boost controller is at 15psi. The wastegate would instead run 15psi?

so do wastegates make the car slower or what? and what about the BOV?

okay then with an RB26, if its stock, it wont have an external wastegate.

both the turbos will have their own internal wastegates.

ditch the external wastegate man, you wont need it, unless your putting a big single turbo with different manifold(s) on.

just use the standard internal wastegates.

btw, wastegates and boost control dont make a car slower at all - wastegates are a need on every turbo car, not an extra thing that you put on.

dunno where you got that from, but a boost controller and wastegate is a means to control boost. the more boost, the more power, the quicker the car.

but you cant run more boost with out having it tuned of youl blow your motor.

as for the BOV, dont touch it. leave the stock one in. a BOV is a valve that opens up when you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, and vents the excess air that the turbo is still flowing out. has no performance benefit at all, except maybe a bit less lag between gears. a BOV helps keep the turbo healthy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
    • I was chatting with an ex SAU person who is involved in chooning euros now. He was saying the factory cars like Audi VW etc have something like 2000 tables that the ECU uses for getting everything "just right". Compare that back to any aftermarket ECU, and you'd be hard pressed to surpass 50 lookup tables. Even the Ford Barra engine has a few hundred lookup tables to run it (and they're still working some tables out too!)
    • Grab a temp probe, and probe each exhaust inlet runner with it sitting idling. Each one should be pretty darn close to the same temp. If you've got some reading higher or lower than the others, it's likely either air flow isn't equal, or your injectors aren't equal to each other.   The other things to check, is from the wiring changes that were made, were any earth's or grounds moved/changed.   Lastly, for the strut brace issue. It's not perfect, but can you get away with slipping a washer or two under the strut brace to raise it, and it still clean the bonnet? If you can, work out the height you need, that the motor can't torque up into, and get a spacer made for each side.
×
×
  • Create New...