Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry i dont know much abotu wastegates could someone explain to me how a wastegate works, ie: if you have a 12psi spring in your wastegate does that mean even if your boostcccontroller is set to 20psi, you only get 12 pounds of boost or how exactly does a wastegate work, does it slow a car down???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306669-wastegates-and-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

The waste gate is a flap that opens to bypass some of the exhaust gas from the turbo. it has a signal line (an air line) from the intake piping, that fills with pressure when you come onto boost. when you reach the boost pressure your wastegate spring/boost controller is set at, there will be enough pressure to open up the wastegate, effectively stopping your turbo from boosting too much.

If you have a 12psi spring in your wastegate and just run a air line to the wastegate, your car will run 12psi. (all things being equal).

if you have a boost controller in there, it 'bleeds' off some of the air in the signal line, so the wastegate will take more pressure to open. i.e. 20psi instead of 12.

but its not advised to run 20 psi (some will say even 12) on a stock turbo, especially with no tune.

i see you have an R32, 20psi on a stock rb20 is a little risky too...

Well thanks for that information, btw i have a r32 without an engine atm XD, still buying an engine.

So say i get a stock rb26dett, i have an external wastegate fitted with a 12psi spring, and my boost controller is at 15psi. The wastegate would instead run 15psi?

so do wastegates make the car slower or what? and what about the BOV?

okay then with an RB26, if its stock, it wont have an external wastegate.

both the turbos will have their own internal wastegates.

ditch the external wastegate man, you wont need it, unless your putting a big single turbo with different manifold(s) on.

just use the standard internal wastegates.

btw, wastegates and boost control dont make a car slower at all - wastegates are a need on every turbo car, not an extra thing that you put on.

dunno where you got that from, but a boost controller and wastegate is a means to control boost. the more boost, the more power, the quicker the car.

but you cant run more boost with out having it tuned of youl blow your motor.

as for the BOV, dont touch it. leave the stock one in. a BOV is a valve that opens up when you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, and vents the excess air that the turbo is still flowing out. has no performance benefit at all, except maybe a bit less lag between gears. a BOV helps keep the turbo healthy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...