Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all im gona clean tha aac valve on my s2 tomorrow

im guessing its just at the back of the intake plenum... i heard theres 2 bits to it??? is this true?

i know i need to pull off the square peice (connected to plenum)

remove electric solenoid

with a flat head remove the jet looking thing...

clean spring and some rod thing

clean with carby cleaner ofcourse...

anything im missing???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306757-cleaning-aac-valve/
Share on other sites

Yes there are two parts two it, there is the solenoid section which is the idle control, and there is the bit with the coolant lines running to it, thats the cold start valve.

Removal:

1st: Remove the larger 30mm pipe that feeds air to the valve from the solid pipe on the coilpack cover. you may need to remove the carbon canister purge solenoid (little blue solenoid just to the left of the "Boost Sensor"

2nd: You need to remove the 3 coolant lines from the AAC, a very small bit of coolant will come out but thats it, no need to block them off.

3rd: Unplug the solenoid valve, light grey plug just above the coilpack cover.

3rd: Undo the 4 M6 bolts (10mm Spanner) that hold the valve to the plenum. Now be careful. If you are you might get away with out damaging the gasket, which means you can re-use it.

Now you will have the valve off. You'll be able to see the two parts to the valve, the solenoid side, which is the main idle control and the bit that really needs cleaning up. and the side that has the coolant lines fed to it, you will see a slitted brass sleeve with spring up the guts off it, this is the cold start side of the valve, once the engine is at temp that slit will be blocked off. You will also see the base idle screw, just make sure its cleaned up too.

To clean, unbolt the solenoid from the assembly, its 2 philips head bolts. when you take the solenoid off be sure not to loose the small spring that sits inside. you should also be able to remove the little plunger part of the valve to clean it up properly. all you can really do with the cold start bit is just make sure the slit isn't gunked up.

once you done cleaning put it all back together. if you accidentally damaged the gasket use a small amount off gasket sealant to help seal it back up, if you use too much sealant it will ooze into the inside of the valve when you do it up, and you don't really want that excess floating around in there.

EDIT: one thing i forgot to mention was, once you've got it all back together. start the engine, then you need to bleed the air out of the coolant lines you removed, this is done by loosening the bolt just near the 3 coolant lines, it usually has a sticker next to it saying something like "Never Open When Hot". i just take the bolt out and run the engine until a steady flow of coolant comes out the hole, then screw it back in and tighten.

i hope thats enough to give you a good idea of the valve, anymore questions just ask.

Edited by QWK32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...