Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Justin, yeh I think they probably are meant to go into the cabin. However I wouldnt have any room to mount them all inside without it looking silly or taking up a fair chunk of room. So left it out in the engine bay. Hopefully they wont get too wet there as they are not exactly water tight lol.

Didnt work Justin.

Edited by r33_racer
Justin, yeh I think they probably are meant to go into the cabin. However I wouldnt have any room to mount them all inside without it looking silly or taking up a fair chunk of room. So left it out in the engine bay. Hopefully they wont get too wet there as they are not exactly water tight lol.

Didnt work Justin.

I'm planning to run mine into the glove box or up behind the dash.. Apparently they are fairly sensitive to water and rough conditions... If you do go Vipec, they are compatable and plug right up. Do your thermocouples penitrate into the gas flow or just in the bung welded on the outside or each runner? I keep getting different advice-

PM again.

Ok. Busy day yesterday finishing it all off. Took it for a drive and it ran like shit, as expected. Some further playing in the datalogit with the injector settings smoothed that out. Still doesnt like coming onto boost so early. My guess the fuel map isnt too good for the 0.5-0.8bar of boost it makes as soon as you stomp the gas. The overboost valve is working, hence the low boost.

Ok the catch can does have some baffling inside of it. But it appears to breathing fine. Guess ill find out on the dyno when it counts.

The electric power steering pump isnt setup yet. Its last on the list of things to do. I Will mount it and hook it up once everything else is sorted and working fine.

Interesting you say that justin, cause a few times ive seen mine read some funny temps, maybe engine noise/vibration is causing this... But the actual sensor ends of mine protrude into the runners, so they have gas flow running past them. Well I may have to re run them back into the cab somewhere if it keeps up. Goddamit!

Ok so the good news is there is a video I did yesterday afternoon. It just shows it running. Its not that good and it has me coughing and speaking in it a few times. My apologies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHCbYgR3mBg

ok so i just dropped the belt and took it for a drive and it was fine in na form. so it seems its just the tune thats making it hesitate when it tries to boost. i was worried it was a mechanical issue with the setup.

So there was a blow out from the discharge port. The aviation goop I used (loctite 3J) wasnt strong enough to keep the two faces sealed even though they are machined. Dont know what RA it would have been. But I know I had to re-mill the face of the outlet pipe flange after welding as it bowed a little. I would have thought with the 3J it would have been good enough, guess not. I refitted both the outlet pipe and bypass valve and regooped them up with some threebond. Hasnt fully cured yet, but did a quick 6500rpm stab and it made 1 bar of boost and it seems to be holding perfectly. No signs of leakage from around the flange face. :(

Now the overboost valve was fully open and screaming when I did that and it still managed to push 1 bar of boost upto the plenum. Starting to think it might not be big enough. But hopefully once its tuned it would be needed to control boost. It also is stupidly loud when its venting. Other issue is when you let the throttle off sharply, the pressurised air goes out the bypass valve and I think goes out the intake and through the afm...bringing back the unstable idle issue for a second as the revs stabilise. I may need to fit a BOV.... :rofl: I was hoping to avoid having one. Another thing Ill have to see if necessary after dyno tuning.

Man that thing is wicked! 1 BAR free revving, haha must be hitting load points its never even been close to before.

It'll be interesting to see what its like after the tune :P

Got to get me one of those twin screws.

Cheers Simon! Im sure you will see it. It will have to be one of those days when there arent any cops to be seen for miles!

Yeh the 1 bar is pretty crazy. Im not sure what boost its even going to make when its fully on song with the overboost valve locked up. Hopefully nothing too stupid like 30+psi. Well tonight we re did the egt modules and put them inside the car, in the glove box to be specific. It was a shit load of mucking around to get them in there, but its done and working. Which im happy with, though I must admit, sparkies must be just brimming with patience, because it took forever and it was a carnt! I cannot stand wiring. Anyway, its all done now, just needs to be tidied up after the ecu goes back in behind the kick panel.

So hopefully tomorrow nothing goes wrong and it all just does what its supposed to do :D

I just read through all 11 pages of this build r33 racer...fantastic to say the least.

Good to see someone tackling something different & should yield some very good results once tuned !...post tune results asap. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...