Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Justin, yeh I think they probably are meant to go into the cabin. However I wouldnt have any room to mount them all inside without it looking silly or taking up a fair chunk of room. So left it out in the engine bay. Hopefully they wont get too wet there as they are not exactly water tight lol.

Didnt work Justin.

Edited by r33_racer
Justin, yeh I think they probably are meant to go into the cabin. However I wouldnt have any room to mount them all inside without it looking silly or taking up a fair chunk of room. So left it out in the engine bay. Hopefully they wont get too wet there as they are not exactly water tight lol.

Didnt work Justin.

I'm planning to run mine into the glove box or up behind the dash.. Apparently they are fairly sensitive to water and rough conditions... If you do go Vipec, they are compatable and plug right up. Do your thermocouples penitrate into the gas flow or just in the bung welded on the outside or each runner? I keep getting different advice-

PM again.

Ok. Busy day yesterday finishing it all off. Took it for a drive and it ran like shit, as expected. Some further playing in the datalogit with the injector settings smoothed that out. Still doesnt like coming onto boost so early. My guess the fuel map isnt too good for the 0.5-0.8bar of boost it makes as soon as you stomp the gas. The overboost valve is working, hence the low boost.

Ok the catch can does have some baffling inside of it. But it appears to breathing fine. Guess ill find out on the dyno when it counts.

The electric power steering pump isnt setup yet. Its last on the list of things to do. I Will mount it and hook it up once everything else is sorted and working fine.

Interesting you say that justin, cause a few times ive seen mine read some funny temps, maybe engine noise/vibration is causing this... But the actual sensor ends of mine protrude into the runners, so they have gas flow running past them. Well I may have to re run them back into the cab somewhere if it keeps up. Goddamit!

Ok so the good news is there is a video I did yesterday afternoon. It just shows it running. Its not that good and it has me coughing and speaking in it a few times. My apologies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHCbYgR3mBg

ok so i just dropped the belt and took it for a drive and it was fine in na form. so it seems its just the tune thats making it hesitate when it tries to boost. i was worried it was a mechanical issue with the setup.

So there was a blow out from the discharge port. The aviation goop I used (loctite 3J) wasnt strong enough to keep the two faces sealed even though they are machined. Dont know what RA it would have been. But I know I had to re-mill the face of the outlet pipe flange after welding as it bowed a little. I would have thought with the 3J it would have been good enough, guess not. I refitted both the outlet pipe and bypass valve and regooped them up with some threebond. Hasnt fully cured yet, but did a quick 6500rpm stab and it made 1 bar of boost and it seems to be holding perfectly. No signs of leakage from around the flange face. :(

Now the overboost valve was fully open and screaming when I did that and it still managed to push 1 bar of boost upto the plenum. Starting to think it might not be big enough. But hopefully once its tuned it would be needed to control boost. It also is stupidly loud when its venting. Other issue is when you let the throttle off sharply, the pressurised air goes out the bypass valve and I think goes out the intake and through the afm...bringing back the unstable idle issue for a second as the revs stabilise. I may need to fit a BOV.... :rofl: I was hoping to avoid having one. Another thing Ill have to see if necessary after dyno tuning.

Man that thing is wicked! 1 BAR free revving, haha must be hitting load points its never even been close to before.

It'll be interesting to see what its like after the tune :P

Got to get me one of those twin screws.

Cheers Simon! Im sure you will see it. It will have to be one of those days when there arent any cops to be seen for miles!

Yeh the 1 bar is pretty crazy. Im not sure what boost its even going to make when its fully on song with the overboost valve locked up. Hopefully nothing too stupid like 30+psi. Well tonight we re did the egt modules and put them inside the car, in the glove box to be specific. It was a shit load of mucking around to get them in there, but its done and working. Which im happy with, though I must admit, sparkies must be just brimming with patience, because it took forever and it was a carnt! I cannot stand wiring. Anyway, its all done now, just needs to be tidied up after the ecu goes back in behind the kick panel.

So hopefully tomorrow nothing goes wrong and it all just does what its supposed to do :D

I just read through all 11 pages of this build r33 racer...fantastic to say the least.

Good to see someone tackling something different & should yield some very good results once tuned !...post tune results asap. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...