Jump to content
SAU Community

Time Attack Setup For A Gtr


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great work so far!

It would be good to see some examples of front double wishbone set ups on R32/R33/R34 GTR's but I think some people keep the details close to their chest. I for one would be interested to know if it can be done using the standard strut towers and pick up points (inner) for the front upper control arms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i eliminated the bushes in the rear LCAs, converted to heims (just like i did with the upper arm). Also, me and a pro drifter friend of mine (forrest wang from hawaii) just finished 2 days of hard work on the vmount and aero, plus a serious front end ready to battle... I dont want to post pice until completed but you guys will really like it. huge adjustable front splitter also

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here are a few more from last week

r-LCA1.jpg

r-LCA2.jpg

r-LCA3.jpg

^^^eliminated the bushing, spherical bearings everywhere!

shockmt-lower.jpg

shockmt-lower2.jpg

^^^aluminum knuckle, modified lower shock mount and toe link mount

shockmt-upper.jpg

^^^upper shock mounts

subframe2.jpg

I just pulled 2.5 days of straight fabrication with

we got the vmount and entire front end really dialed, will post pics once completed. you guys will love it, especially with the bumper cover off :) Edited by Full-Race Geoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geoff....wouldn't it have been easier to just buy an EVO and fit one of your twin scroll GT35R or GT40R kits? :cheers:

Seriously though, what I am seeing is testiment to your dedication to making cars go faster - you have taken the "nothing is impossible" attitude in order to achieve that pursuit.

Lesser people (like me) would have given up at the thought of fitting a full RB26 and 4wd system into an S chassis. And the suspension modifications just makes my head hurt!

Cheers,

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh boy do i have updates... getting tuned on weds so i dont have any time to download pics or post. soon after tho ;)

Hi Full Car Geoff, very courageous work, and looks good. I take it you are butting the cradle to the chassis now, to raise rear roll centre? Being a later model Nissan so you don't need to change rear lower control arm squat angle, as I see the forward control arm bracket is near the seam of cradle, unlike Z32 and R32, S13 and early S14, which have too much anti squat.

Space front of diff snout down to get some diff pinion angle, so when you accelerate the diff wants to straighten and indirectly drives tyre into the ground?

I see strengthening of upper cradle mount brackets, good idea and Nismo sell these that bolt in, although welded is better.

Need to raise rear inner steering arm pivot pint to reduce toe change and have toe in under acceleration for better grip.

Happy to talk over the phone or come around if local? Cancel that I see you are accross the big pond.

Also see our site in motorsports section, to see what we have done to our zed. Our site might be down atm though. Zeds are very similar to GTR R32 and S14-15 other than MacPherson strut, although you changed this. You now need our pivoting top control arms.

We are currently doing lots of mods to a ZTT setting up for the track see this thread. I am Unique Zed

Zed Build

Link to comment
Share on other sites

interesting choice on the rear LCAs, i would have thought (and did) that changing to full custom was better. Nothing special about the stock arms and pretty easy to replace with chromoly tube. Did you keep the standard rear LCA ball joints, we found it difficult to match an aftermarket cone for the ball joint socket (no machine shop readily available to me)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

interesting choice on the rear LCAs, i would have thought (and did) that changing to full custom was better. Nothing special about the stock arms and pretty easy to replace with chromoly tube. Did you keep the standard rear LCA ball joints, we found it difficult to match an aftermarket cone for the ball joint socket (no machine shop readily available to me)

Yes it is Duncan with options to test and adjust and see, but depends on budget and we worked on this zed by raising the rear it raises roll centre and improves squat angle in one.

We will be raising rear inner steering pivot point next and plotting it, as in theory it should be better for toe change and toe in under acceleration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...