Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So do I but after explaining it to him 3x (remove stock wheel and replace with another stock wheel) he gave me the same answer so I didnt bother wasting my time any further, I could tell he wasn't interested in my business after about the first 5 words.

I dropped into Nissan Service/Spare Parts on the way home today and he was even less useful than CRD. He basically said that they don't change the airbag wheel and to just get an aftermarket wheel. I explained to him that using an aftermarket steering wheel on a car that comes factory with an airbag wheel is an illegal modification and he said "How will the police know? They would have to call us and we can't tell for sure because its a Japanese car and we have no record of it".

So im still no further ahead.

A decent Momo aftermarket wheel plus a boss kit plus fitting im not gonna get any change out of $600 :D

I just spoke to a guy at www.willshire.com.au whom was very friendly and helpful. He said that whilst the battery is disconnected teh airbag is a sitting duck. He also said that no workshops will change it over because of liability insurance.

So i'm willing to give it a go because at the moment it feels like my current wheel is about to fall off.

remove 2 side screws as covered by Nrage33, you will need a tamperproof T50 driver. If you can't get a tamperproof, use a screwdriver to break the "point" out of each of the bolts then use a normal T50.

I'd like to know how you did this? I tried it today and after a good 10 whacks i didnt even put a mark in the center "point" bit.

Also the only place I can find so far that sells the Tamperproof T50 is Snap-On and they want $43 :D

benm thats the exact same problem i'm having. if i find the problem i'll let you know how to fix it.
I got my old worn airbag wheel removed and replaced today with a perfect condition airbag wheel.

Whats causing this is underneath the airbag (connected by a bracket with 2 phillips head screws to the actual "wheel" right at the top bit) their is a small metal weight (its about 10cm x 3cm) which is claimed to reduce vibration and you will find this has come loose (as had mine).

To fix this you will first need to remove the airbag and then simply remove this weight or the entire bracket and your "clunk clunk" is fixed.

  • 3 weeks later...

Nope, for my R33 GTS-t it was pretty much:

* Disconnect battery.

* Disconnect 2 plugs at the botton of the wheel.

* Remove 2 side bolts for Airbag (T50) and slide the airbag out gently.

* Remove center bolt that holds the steering wheel onto the steering shaft.

* Give the outside of the steering wheel afew good hits to knock it loose.

* Then just do the reverse to put the new wheel on.

Once the battery is re-connected your right to drive off as normal, no "resetting" or anything silly like that. Provided that I had the right tools I think I could do it in 5mins flat.

Another way was to remove the bracket that makes the clunk noise and then get your steering wheel reupholstered in new leather...

Mate of mine does car upholstery and we put black leather with blue cross stitching...looks awesome...need to get a pick to show u guys....

might've been cheaper than a new wheel....benm, how much was the new wheel?

$150 for the wheel and $40 to get it fitted.

An aftermarket Wheel (Momo Race) would have cost around $400 + $50 fitting + $250 boss kit = $700, no thanks.

Getting new leather put on my old wheel was going to cost me around $300+

That's awesome...you've done well!!!

I didn't find out about getting another wheel, thought it would be too much. I wanted it to look a little different so I liked the thicker leather and blue cross stitching..It wasn't a bad price to do this anyway (mates rates :)

I have the same clunking in my wheel, its like something has come loose.

I took it to my usual performance workshop, and he said he couldnt get the wheel off because it needs a special tool... WTF?

Me starts to think he just couldn't be stuffed. Anyhow mines booked in next week at Gavin Woods for a service so I'll get em to check it.

Nope, for my R33 GTS-t it was pretty much:

 

* Disconnect battery.

* Disconnect 2 plugs at the botton of the wheel.

* Remove 2 side bolts for Airbag (T50) and slide the airbag out gently.

* Remove center bolt that holds the steering wheel onto the steering shaft.

* Give the outside of the steering wheel afew good hits to knock it loose.

* Then just do the reverse to put the new wheel on.

 

Once the battery is re-connected your right to drive off as normal, no "resetting" or anything silly like that. Provided that I had the right tools I think I could do it in 5mins flat.

I took it to my usual performance workshop, and he said he couldnt get the wheel off because it needs a special tool... WTF?
Yup he'll need a "Torx Tamper-Proof T50 Socket". All the usual places (Supercheap, Jaycar, DickSmith Electronics, Bunnings, Repco, Autobahn) had the sockets but only up to a T40 size. You can buy it directly from Snap On for about $43.

mmmm, torque screws suck. Yet all the cars are changing over tho them, I think its more a case to keep joe blows from pulling stuff apart and getting to wiring looms and other goodies (the sills in the commodores all have torque screws these days).

  • 1 month later...

Guys,

For any of you with an airbag on the steering wheel, just get it re-leathered. think it is illegal to remove the steering wheel with airbag and the Insurance companies void your insurance!!!! Don't risk it.

I got mine re-leathered today and will pick it up this arvo...along with my auto gear selector. Cheap as chips...The bloke is charging me $150 for the re-leathering of wheel, and $70 for the gear shift selector. He is also re-upholstering the drivers seat velour fabric for $60 as it has a cigarette butt burn from the previous owner.

Anyone interested can post a message up and I'll provide the details. I am located in Bris, the guy is at Capalaba.

:rofl::D:)

Holy......

I got my car back from the upholsterer....I would not recommend him.....The gear select shifter was re-leather with EXCELLENT craftsmanship...but, the steering wheel.....It sticks out like dog's balls......It is craphouse....I am very disappointed.....Will take it back this Sat to complain....

He hasn't done the seat yet.....And will do it this Sat.....Boy, that cigarette butt burn is also an eyesore as well....

Hmmm..Maybe it's time to change the steering wheel completely? Better go search for one in the classifieds......

Anyone got a relatively good condition steering with airbag for sale?

I'll post his details pending on how the guy resolves my steering wheel crisis!!!!

All done.....Finally!

The steering wheel is ok, so is the gear shift selector. The cigarette butt burn was fixed also....Veyr happy now..

the dude's name is :

Shane Allt

Custom Trim Designs - Capalaba

0417 071 194

Whats causing this is underneath the airbag (connected by a bracket with 2 phillips head screws to the actual "wheel" right at the top bit) their is a small metal weight (its about 10cm x 3cm) which is claimed to reduce vibration and you will find this has come loose (as had mine).  

 

To fix this you will first need to remove the airbag and then simply remove this weight or the entire bracket and your "clunk clunk" is fixed.

Here's a pic showing the bracket still in there but the weight removed. You can either just 'rip' out the weight (its just held in with sticky stuff) or you can just remove the whole bracket with the 2 screws:

wheel.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...