Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I had a crazy idea last night and I decided I wanted to put an SR20VE Head on an SR20DE S14 Block.

Question is, will this work?

I see people saying stuff about the solenoids, is that a big problem relocating them?

Also I see people getting custom intake manifolds made up, can't I just use the SR20DE Intake manifold?

I may not necessarily do this but I am just very curious, and hopefully the more knowledgable members out there can clear some stuff up for me.

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

he means FWD engines. however it can be done as far as putting them in a rwd car, just takes a bit more work (not sure how much though). i know someone that had a fwd engine in a datsun. had to alter the firewall to fit the distributor in though as the rwd engines don't use the dizzy. not sure if the VE does or not.

the s14 manifold may just bolt straight up as the stud pattern may be the same, just the fwd manifolds are designed to feed from the back of the motor (gearbox end)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just went through a few forums and most of them don't have much useful info. people have asked the question about putting a rwd engine in a fwd car or vice versa and 99% of the answers are just "no it won't" or "why not just get the right motor?" and other useless responses, yet most of the people saying that don't know why they don't fit. i managed to find a few posts that actually explained the differences (there were plenty of posts about differences in spec, but not about physical differences such as engine mount locations etc). one of the main problems is the starter motor mounts differently, however i did find a pic of someone who had worked around this with a bit of fabrication. still not sure about the intake manifold though.

i can't remember how much work the guy i know had to do to get his to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True that, nissanexa.com just aren't as good as here! but saying that if you were getting into contact with "nxtacy" and another memeber they have done this and spent a lot of money and know what their talking about, just try them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a SR20 vvl head on a gtir short motor mounted in a datsun 1600 with an r33 gtst gearbox behind it...yes mods have to be made but it is certainly something that can be done .

Solenoids can be reloacted quite easily ..but i chose to alter the firewall to suit & use the original dizzy body only for the trigger to run a coil on plug setup.

cars185.jpg

IMGP0418.jpg

IMGP0235.jpg

Last pic is when i had the gtir head on it as well ..as it will still run the quad throttle bodies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats neat man! Did you use a GTiR block? Or did the SR20VE Block fit straight in?

Also what intake manifold did you use? and the wiring? Will normal SR20DE Loom do the job? I will get an aftermarket management system to get it all tuned up.

Cheers.

Also where can I find an SR20VE head, got any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your going to go NA SRVE. Put an SR16VE head on an SR20VE block. This is an East West set up. I have seen builds of people pulling oer 150 NA KW wth this set up

Its going into a Silvia, RWD. East West setup? Does that mean FWD?

I Am going to use an S14 SR20DE Block, with an SR20VE Head.

Only problems I can see is, wiring, intake manifold, and the Dizzy, not sure how the hell that is going to fit behind the engine.

Can anyone advise me?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Yes it will work

use the s13 block and the ve oil pump

U need to machine the cam chain drive if you want to run adjustable gears due to the different style cam chain

Also there is a oil return to be blocked and a vvt line to be drilled and plumbed , seriously its a very easy swap

6boost make a manifold for it as well

The intake has to be custom made but it has a flange halfway down the intake which you can bolt to

Make the plenum chamber about 5 litre for best power and throttle response

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate, lots of information here: http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...;st=0&fcat=

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...p;#entry5558260

There is a fair bot of cost involved in doing it, but parts are becoming more readily available and there are a number of them being built on NS.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...