Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just took the r33 gtst to the shops and on the way back, went to boost and had a large cloud of grey smoke come out the back, and the car will no longer boost so im assuming my turbo has given up

Currently the car has minor mods, FMIC, 3inch exhaust and was running 10psi.

For a bit of scope, im happy with how the car preforms and am not looking for more power. Id prefer to maintain the early response the stock turbo gives, and not have to get a new ECU and tune. But im not against a minor power upgrade if the bang for buck is there.

So what are my options? New turbo or is a rebuild with steel wheel worth it?

What costs am i looking at?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307096-turbo-blown-what-are-my-options/
Share on other sites

Link?

Is that rebuild or new?

Also been reading around about some people killing engines with the ceramic dust created when the turbo lets go, how probable is it that this could have happened? as i recall i gave it a punch at about 3500rpm and it let go instantly once it left vacuum, and i held it there long enough for me to look down and read the boost gauge at 0 before i backed off.

Edited by Sparky206

Cheapest and easiest way would be get a second hand stock turbo (see above :laugh:) because you won't have to modify anything to fit.

Having said that, you don't know how much life the new turbo has left in it.

*update*

Well I've gone with the hypergear hi flow option, sent it off last week.

When i took the turbo off it was the shaft that had sheered off, flush with the seals. Few little gouge marks where the wheel had impacted the housing on the way out, but other than that nothing too major.

Got to thinking over the last week to where the shaft and wheel ended up, so it took the exhaust apart tonight and im glad i did.

Starting at the dump pipe, you can see a slight mark where the wheel has spiraled down the dump pipe, looking in the other end theres a solid yellowish mark where the wheels impacted, followed by lots of little mounds, kind of like when you throw a clump of dirt at concrete, except this time with ceramic. After that i found the majority of my exhaust wheel at the beginning of the cat, in about a million pieces.

But, there was no sign of the shaft which the wheel was connected too that sheered off. Im not too familiar with the setup of the stock internals, but i assumed that the shaft would have been metalic, and survived the trip down the dump pipe. There's no way it got through the cat, it wasnt damaged at all, and nothing bigger than a grain of rice is passing through there, so any idea where it could be? or am i wrong in presuming the shaft is metal, and it has infact blown up.

Also, there's a bit of mention on ingesting ceramic dust back into the cylinder, causing damage.

Is this likely to occur?

With the exhaust side being separate to the intake side, and the car accelerating at time of failure im having trouble to see how people have had this occur

Cheers guys, thanks for the informative replys so far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine. The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember. The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them.
    • Good to hear the condenser you picked up off my brother worked all good. Do you think there could be an issue with your AC compressor itself or the clutch on it then? I don't know a lot about them so I can't really help but keen to hear what it ends up being. Keep the build thread going man, it's nice to look back on over time.
    • This is a story of my life things, I learned eventually (thanks to someone calling me out) that my enthusiasm for discussing and sharing ideas that it came across as arrogance and I'm like... WTF?!    One thing I'm pretty sure I justifiably pride myself on is knowing that everyone will have things they can teach you, and you're always going to find out that something you think you know turns out wrong - you just don't know what it is until you get there.   Just the bursting enthusiasm that comes with ADHD when you hit something that gives you dopamine dumps can come across like you think everyone else is wrong or don't matter. But yeah, I'm a software engineer by trade and also do tuning in weekends and 100% have long had a reputation for  quickly making connections when resolving problems or forming solutions that I've sometimes had to take people form a long walk from start to end to explain how I ended up where I did when it's seemed "too simple" when I've stated my initial case, and had the "WTF" type reaction when they've realised how much was actually considered haha.   My reward is that I get all the curly problems thrown at me.
    • Wives never seem to find things funny. Especially when they're trying to sleep, and you've found the new funniest thing ever. I've never seen someone be able to get try and be cranky with me, while they're holding back fits of laughter... 😛   Also, I tell mine it's payback anyway. She has BiPolar. So the household can get quite emotionally wild at times 😛
    • I'm not up to date on the latest, but for basic modifications like pod filter, lower springs etc you can get a modification permit at the time of inspection.  For more serious modifications you will need engineering.  Intercoolers used to fall into the mod permit rule but its been a long while since i looked it up.   Either way you will be able to get it registered, just a case of $300 vs $3k . 
×
×
  • Create New...