Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

soarers are nice marc you prince of gayness (Eps is king LOLZ OH NO HE DI-DN'T!)

people who whinge about gearboxes are always fags, try driving a VX SS T56 gearbox THEN compare it to everything else.

Also hamish (can I call you mi mi?), i think that we have got the hint that you have 300rwkw, I assume genuine Garrett housings and not a hypergear or HPIAB setup?

LOL, only thing i don't like about them is the dash (mainly the instrument cluster) in the 30 series

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok i got myself a bit of a pickle here... a few months ago i found out that nizzpro performance did a 1jzgte conversion into nissans. so i went out and bought a r32 shell without a engine and diff which was pretty much all i was looking for. i got the money arranged yesterday so i went into nizzpro this morning to talk to them about exactly what it would cost etc.

so i asked the blokes there about it and he took me through the workshop, telling me the info that i needed to know. after a bit of discussion, he got me onto a rb25 conversion, both looking at it being a bit cheaper, it would only take a bit over a week compared to about a month and more power out of stock internals and is generally better. he seemed to dislike the 1jz conversion a bit more as well.

the original base offer for the 1jzgte with everything included and installed was $7500 (not including diff or suspension), but they've had to bump up the price a bit because of price increases in some of the items they buy to do it. but to get the rb25 in it will cost around the $7000 mark with everything i wanted (suspension and diff included).

iv been searching on the net this afternoon with 1jz vs. rb25 discussions, and everywhere i read that 1jz is a better engine both in potential and strength. so now im feeling very undecided. the car is just going to be a track/drift car so its going to be under the pump a fair bit.

what are your views on 1jzgte vs. rb25det? pros and cons for its intended purpose.

rb25 fo sure!!

yes but i'd also like to add that birds can die in a fire

and then i'd further like to add that peak power output or not regardless - the VVTI in the single creates twice the amount of torque than the twin, that's a common known fact - the driving style of the engine is completely different - power peak HP or not - the VVTI is a faster engine... regardless of numbers on paper - pound for pound vvti 1J is king

by saying vvti 1J i REALLY mean birds

and by saying king i mean

gay.

The non vvti 1J is choked by a shitful exhaust and intake which no doubt will be replaced anyway. You are comparing figures of bog standard cars when you would struggle to find a supra or chaser without at least an exhaust.

I have driven an vvti 1JZ back to back with twin turbo (both with minor mods) and believe me the vvti isn't a torque monster with a totally different feel. The low and mid range punch is similar and the twin turbo just runs away from the vvti 1JZ as soon as you're out of 1st gear. This is backed up with quarter mile ET's and MPH on countless time cards posted on supra and chaser forums. Even the 60 footers are slower on the vvti cars.

You're a keyboard warrior and a dickhead.

lol Chill out man he's just fcukin around.

Anyway, 1/4 times are all good and well mate. But this guy is building a drifter, hence area under the curve is important.

Now go have a cup of tea and a lie down.

Just recently purchased a chaser (1JZ-GTE), and i must say its a better engine than the RB25. Stock vs stock the 1J is deff quicker. Well it feels like it. I have owned a skyline 33 (rb25) for 3 years, and now a chaser. Straight away i could feel the difference.

I would put a rb25 in that 32. Easier, cheaper and it will be less hassles.

amen to that bro i can relate, just bought a chaser too, 1j is miiiles ahead of the 25 from drivin my 25 ceffy that made roughly 260hp atw

and this chaser could flog it down with ease, mind you it is a 99 vvti model, a fair wack more torque shifting thru gears at low rpm too

and shit if the chaser weighed the same as a ceffy itd be even quicker again

  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...