L20et

[Gerry Giraffe]

Howdy! im still pretty new to this site, just woundering if anyone knows the reliability or strength of an L20ET, my mate just bought a r30 skyline, the motor is in pieces but has a r33 turbo that has apparently already run on the motor and it has a standard intercooler from some sort of mercedes van. it also has a 5 speed gearbox, the motor is in about 25 different bits cos the guy who owned it before us took the head off and got it reconditioned, but he also left the motor uncovered and now there is some surface rust in the cylinders, but just woundering if these motors are any good as in to get power from or should he just ditch the motor and box all together and get a r32 front cut??? He wants to use it as a drifter when he gets his opens (in about 6 months).

[Factory 5]

Hey there,

I suggest for drifting, look into a RB type conversion. The L20et is a tough little bugger, but to get it to stay toghether in being 'abused' in a drift session really it will likely pop. you cant really get more than 130kW with them either.

I am sure the money would be MUCH better spent in a RB30 conversion, and then boost that.

An RB20det if your funds allow.

PS. send me a pm with your contact details. Im keeping an eye out for L20et gear for 'classic' type modification

Edited February 7, 2010 by MAG86

[Gerry Giraffe]

hay mate thanks for the info ill talk to my mate and see if he wants to ditch the L20 straight away or if he is going to use it till he gets an rb motor, either way it wont be in there long, i have been trying to convince him to get a r32 front cut for the rb20 and use the brakes as well from it. At the same time he isnt exactly all that mechanically minded and would be better off doing a conversion straight away lol ill get back to you soon though.

Thanks heaps Gerard

[prince_skyline]

Just wondering what type of information is around for a L20ET in terms of engine manuals? Is there anything available in pdf?

My father's Prince Skyline GTB is running an L20ET and there seems to be very little in the way of formal manuals around for this type of engine.

Has anyone got anything in electronic format? pm me if you can help.

[stagefumer11]

MAG, honnestly dude, what you think isnt always right./

Steve murch of NZ here has gotten 180rwkw out of a stock internaled L20ET. Myself, I got 124rwkw on 14psi with a rb20det turbo on the stock ecu. A good friend of mine had 126rwkw on a stock turbo, with a link ecu.

These motors can take a thrashing. Big time!... Another mate of mine drifts his reguarly,with a t3/t4 combo, its been going happly for years.

Plus mine had done over 500,000k.

If you wanted to port the head, and install larger valves, they can do 200rwkw, maybe more

[Factory 5]

all I meant was that for the same price to get the L6 all jizzed up for drifting (bouncing of rev limiter all the time) you could get an RB doing the same, if not better for alot less. head porting and bigger valves would cost a tad under $1000 here in Oz. (I know as Ive looked into it.)

An rb can be had for $1000 complete with gearbox.

it is a bit of an unfair comparison though....

[stagefumer11]

all I meant was that for the same price to get the L6 all jizzed up for drifting (bouncing of rev limiter all the time) you could get an RB doing the same, if not better for alot less. head porting and bigger valves would cost a tad under $1000 here in Oz. (I know as Ive looked into it.)

An rb can be had for $1000 complete with gearbox.

it is a bit of an unfair comparison though....

Everyone is running off and doing conversions, nothing is kept historic anymore its a discrace to Nissans... I didnt think spending $200 on a BeeR rev limiter, and $400 on a cheepo t3/t4 expensive. upgrade your injectors ect. 140-150rwkw. its not expensive and keeping some historic value to the vehical.

He'd have more fun doing a l28et swap.. More toruqe. + historic for the vehical

[wht510]

You both have solid suggestions, but to put things into perspective, if the car was an HR30, then I would argue keep the L series. If it's just the common R30, then stick a VH45 in it for all I care.

[Babalouie]

Why not something in the middle? Say, stick with L20ET, but buy an L28 block and bolt the manifolds to that, throw away the L20ET turbo, replace with T3, and it'll have a lot more power than an L20ET and be a lot more unstressed.

[Factory 5]

Perfect. Pretty much spot-on with what I would be doing (if I could find an L28 in Canberra!)

[Socrates]

Can the L20ET block be bored out very far?

[Factory 5]

It has some room, but 'very far' it cant. It can be made into 2.9 litres quite easily on the factory crank. just needs a careful selection of rod and pistons.

I have heard from many sources that once its bored out, it dosent like boost (so really boring is only an option for non-turbo setups)

excellent drivability though. instant throttle response.

[Babalouie]

I reckon an L28ET, with all those cubic inches would be a brilliant thing, heaps of torque

[stagefumer11]

I reckon an L28ET, with all those cubic inches would be a brilliant thing, heaps of torque

Hence why there is one sitting in my engine bay.

[Socrates]

When you say doesn't like boost meaning blows a hole in the cylinder wall?

[Ghostrider]

Hence why there is one sitting in my engine bay.

And another on my engine stand, but mine is 2818cc

[Ghostrider]

It has some room, but 'very far' it cant. It can be made into 2.9 litres quite easily on the factory crank. just needs a careful selection of rod and pistons.

I have heard from many sources that once its bored out, it dosent like boost (so really boring is only an option for non-turbo setups)

excellent drivability though. instant throttle response.

The question was .......................... "Can the L20ET (L20A) block be bored out very far?"

And your saying this???

Where do you get your information from???

The L20A block has a 79mm bore and to get 2.9L you will have to have an L28 crank & rods and an 88mm bore.

How do you put an 9mm over bore down this block and have cylinders to work with???????

When you want to get cubic inches out of an L series block, you should be specific about what block should be used. The F54 L28et block is not suitable for turbo use past 1.0mm (.040) oversize because the bore is getting thin, but on the other hand, an N42 block can be boosted with an 89mm bore (3.0mm oversize) without any problems, but L24 rods are needed on an LD28 crank and KA24E pistons (or custom forged) with lots of machine work, which makes it an $10~20,000.00 engine build.

I would think about 135~140kW would be about the limit of the L20A, but you're going to have to let it breath well and after you have, your better off doing an N42 or F54 L28 rebuild and very good numbers can be got out of these, particularly if you think out of the square.

I have said this many times and I'll say it again, "How would you like 500+nM on about factory boost @ 4500rpm" if you think that's impressive, it is easily attainable out of an L28et modification, but you need to be thinking outside of the square.

Cheers, D

PS .... Your a bit rich mags, tell the guy his L20et is sh!t and then want to buy parts from it ????????????????????????????????

[iseekool]

Not taking anybody's side here.

I think what Mag86 is trying to say is you can get more power for better value out of an RB setup.

Nothing wrong with the L series - but cost vs. performance the RB will be of better value, due to it newer design/technology etc. etc.

Mag86 is interested in the L20A for a restore/historical job... not to chase massive power.

End of the day it is the OPs decision if his mate wants to part with the L20A or get an RB or other engine....

[Ghostrider]

Mag86 is interested in the L20A for a restore/historical job... not to chase massive power.

Mag86 wants the L20et parts for his own MR30 L24et conversion and nothing else, to chase exactly what he says he isn't, chasing more power.

D

[Factory 5]

farking typical... another thread gone to shit

again....