Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing Speedo Cable

AlexanderR32

By AlexanderR32,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

levizzle Community Regular

levizzle

Posted
Posted

Its not hard really, I dont know if you have a cable already but do that first. A new one from nissan will be like $100 or u can get ur old one repaired at a gauge specialist, a place here in SA does it for about $70 so maybe there is something similar near you. After you have got ur good cable remove the old one.

1) Take out the gauge cluster by removing the surrounding fascia to get to the 4 screws holding the gauges in, then pull it out slowly and remove the 3 plugs attached.

2) Behind where the speedo usually is you will see the cable end, push the whole thing left-wards out of its clip-in holder.

3) Put the car up on some axle stands and get under the car. Find the other end of the cable which goes into the gearbox approx level with under the drivers seat. Undo the collar with some grip pliers or something similar just to get it going and then you should be able to use ur fingers.

4) The end should come out of the gearbox. Now follow it back and unclip all the clips holding it to the chassis.

5) Lastly is the kinda triangular thing attached to the firewall which you have to undo from underneath as it is a very tight space. There are 3 bolts and you will prob need a small ratchet to get to them. Undo these and everything should be undone.

6) Manouvre the cable out by first pulling it down through the whole in the firewall and pushing towards the back of the car. Then once the gauge end is out, push the whole thing back up through the engine bay and out the top.

7) Basically do the opposite to put the new one in.

8) Make sure to line up the little notch when putting the gearbox end back in. Also line up the square hole on the back of the gauge to match the position of the square peg on the gauge end of the cable, then slide the gauges in slowly so as not to break the square peg. If the hole angle is really different to the peg angle it could snap it.

Hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kyer32
      Want to buy a Rb20det preferably in Sydney

      By Kyer32 · Posted

      Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • GTSBoy
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • sonicii
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By sonicii · Posted

      98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • silviaz
      Shitty Series 1 R34 Interior Plastic Paint

      By silviaz · Posted

      Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • GTSBoy
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...