Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A couple of months ago I bought an r34 gtt. But lately it has developed a new trick.

Within 10 mins of the first drive of the day the tcs off and slip signs come on, as well as the malfunction indicator light. It usually just takes a few stationary restarts to get it back working, but i was just wondering what the cause could be?

I had a look round for similar topics but most people seem to have permanent tc problems, whereas mine is only in the first 10mins of driving and temporary.

Any clues?

Thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307312-tc-failure/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
its getting worse. yesterday the error light came on, tc turned off and the car ran like shite for a while. 2 restarts later and it went back to normal. i guess this is some ecu problem?

It may pay to check if a previous owner has put in a TCS modifier this reverses the switch function (so you have to turn it on not off after you've started the engine) and is hard wired in near the tcs control unit in the boot.

I was going to put one in but decided against it for no particular reason after I'd bought it.

It may have been poorly installed or removed and have damaged the wireing.

Just a thought.

Edited by BASHO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307312-tc-failure/#findComment-5147635
Share on other sites

Mine does the exact same thing mate.

It' will slowly get worse, to the point where the lights will only stay off from startup until you put it in gear, then straight on, and stay on.

I've found that occasionally nailing it (wheelspin) can turn 'ON' TRC again (ie, lights 'off'). Rare. I think it's simply a broken wire, possibly transmission tunnel area, as I pulled the carpet up to dry it out*, and the lights went out for a day and a bit, but came back.

I'm certain it's not a broken wheel speed sensor, as ABS still works fine.

The ENG light occasionally (rare) comes on, and gives code 28, I have no idea what that refers to, I simply clear the codes, and it's fine. The first time I got this code was when I tried remote starting it in 'Drive', and the sensors denied start procedure. Other times haven't had a pattern.

If I park facing downhill (only) and it rains heavily, the cabin air intake/front rain gutter area overflows near the driver's A-pillar and leaks into the driver's footwell (*hence \drying the carpet above :blink: ) Is this a common fault?

Edited by nato_wp
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307312-tc-failure/#findComment-5148321
Share on other sites

The ENG light occasionally (rare) comes on, and gives code 28, I have no idea what that refers to, I simply clear the codes, and it's fine. The first time I got this code was when I tried remote starting it in 'Drive', and the sensors denied start procedure. Other times haven't had a pattern.

thanks for the info mate. how do i see the error codes? and does anyone know where a key to the codes is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307312-tc-failure/#findComment-5156620
Share on other sites

lol ill answer my own question for anyone who may have been awaiting an answer:

error codes can be checked using this method

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html

lol, being a newb is a little tiring sometimes. i'm yet to do a search for coilpack problems, but it sounds like that's going to be the problem

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307312-tc-failure/#findComment-5168683
Share on other sites

You might want to invest in a console cable, i got mine for $60 off ebay. Invaluble tool for getting stats/error codes and running diagnostics on all older pre OBD-II nissans.

i will do that sometime in the near-ish future, but atm slightly conservative on the mulahs.

just wondering tho, why would coilpacks bailing cause the tc to fail?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307312-tc-failure/#findComment-5173570
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...