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These days/nights are awsome, so many ideas for my next mod, also Unigroup will not lead you astray with useless mods like other shops, only the best bang for your buck.

Plus 1 for unigroup,yavuz does a top job,he does'nt cut corners. :thumbsup:

hey dudes, would it be worth coming to this to have a chat to Yavuz about having some work done? Or will he be flat out? need some advice on prepping my car as a dedicated track car.

hey dudes, would it be worth coming to this to have a chat to Yavuz about having some work done? Or will he be flat out? need some advice on prepping my car as a dedicated track car.

If you get there early you might have a chance to chat with him,once the dyno starts its pretty full on. :D

hey dudes, would it be worth coming to this to have a chat to Yavuz about having some work done? Or will he be flat out? need some advice on prepping my car as a dedicated track car.

Should be some people who could give you some info, come along man.

How are those apex seals going AndySmack?? :D

I only seen real motors there, hang on, let me think, nope, only real motors.

Must admit a rotor at full song sounds the goods, pity they dont last though.

had a good time tonight guys, good to meet some of you.

im in love with N1GTR Steve's car. couldnt believe it only revved to 6000rpm, what a nugget, and only made 400RWKW at that 6000rpm,, pfffftt.

my GTR made a whopping 235.7RWKW on 14psi, what an absolute power house. time for some boost and a power fc.

Was a good time last night. Great to see all the gang.

Here's the board standings the first time we thought we were finished - sorry Ben you're not on this pic. I forgot to take a picture right at the end.

post-16200-1267907851_thumb.jpg

im in love with N1GTR Steve's car. couldnt believe it only revved to 6000rpm, what a nugget, and only made 400RWKW at that 6000rpm,, pfffftt.

will whip straight around to 8000 once the magnetic interference issue with the crank-angle trigger is sorted

but it was out of safe injector duty-cycle at 'only' 400rwkW anyway (with 1000cc's). E85's awesome, but my God you need enormous amounts of the stuff

next stop 1600cc injectors, more boost, adjust cam lobe-centers and 450+ rear wheel killerwatts should result




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    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
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