Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm looking at importing my first car and am hoping I can get some pointers from people with experience here.

I am fully conversant with the export side but not importing. Having read quite a bit about importing, including stuff in this forum, I am still a little lost.

At present I am looking at starting small, possibly a Supra SZ or Stagea as they are not so expensive and hopefully easily sold.

I saw mention of After Market parts needing to be removed, is this anything non-original or are there some passable things?

When it comes time to do the clearance with the customs brokers, is it necessary for the BL consignee to be in country?

Also if anyone has a can recommend a reputable RAWS in Vic it would be most appreciated.

Cheers

Yob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307379-first-import/
Share on other sites

ok, as far as what non-standard parts are acceptable for compliance strictly the answer is that the car should be presented completely standard in the same specification as the car that the complier used for their evidence package. so your car has to mimic what they have evidence for in it's specification. in practice some compliers are less strict than others about what exactly they will allow or not allow. generally non-standard wheels (within reason) are ok etc but the only persons opinion who really matters in your case is the compliance shop you choose. so the best idea is to call a compliance shop and talk to them about what they will or wont accept. after all it's no good me telling you it's ok to have aftermarket wheels and then they tell you that you can't. cause telling them that the Beer Baron said it's ok probably wont get you very far...

the consignee on the BL does not have to be in the country at the time of import. you just need to sign a piece of paper authorising your customs agent to act on your behalf and to release the car to your chosen tow truck driver, or to the compliance workshop. you could even put your name, and the compliers name as the consignee if you don't think you'll be here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307379-first-import/#findComment-5078878
Share on other sites

Thanks for that.

Now to finding a suitable RAWS.....after seeing this thread it seems I could sent a total clunker in to them lol.

Good Luck with the Import ... as I am looking for my Dream Ride too ...

I would be using Kristian from Iron Chef Import ... Really Decent Guy and Upfront.

Good luck with you find ... and might see you on the streets one day ...

Regards,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307379-first-import/#findComment-5081997
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
×
×
  • Create New...