Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

The only tru way is to pull the head off and measure it. You could do a compression test. If the numbers are higher than factory specs, it is shaved. But I know with my shaved head, it pings a little in a low gear and high load, like going up a long hill at 2000 rpm. Is your ECU tuned? If so post up your tune if you know how and I can see if it has been adjusted for higher compression. Of course whoever built your engine could have put a thicker head gasket on to counter the shaved head.

My question is why do you want to know? Are you wanting to shave it again?

on a rb26, on the underside of the head at the front there is a foil sticker. all virgin heads have them. if its gone then you know its been done. also the factory finnish is very fine. not cause like most machine shops do it.

you would have to get 2 side by side and see.

The only tru way is to pull the head off and measure it. You could do a compression test. If the numbers are higher than factory specs, it is shaved. But I know with my shaved head, it pings a little in a low gear and high load, like going up a long hill at 2000 rpm. Is your ECU tuned? If so post up your tune if you know how and I can see if it has been adjusted for higher compression. Of course whoever built your engine could have put a thicker head gasket on to counter the shaved head.

My question is why do you want to know? Are you wanting to shave it again?

You hit he nail on the head!

It does ping on a hot day pulling off in first with the ac on and if i dont give it enough throttle,and comp did come up a little high, with 175 being the highest so all this lead me to believe it was shaved......also using 95oct on the stock ecu.

I guess compression hasn't raised by that much though because Nissan says it suppose to be 170 from factory, so surely 175 shouldn't make much difference.

I got the engine from the importers so god alone knows what the japs did, but i am thinking about putting in some forged pistons, freshen it up a bit and use a metal hg and i know the head has to be perfectly flat to use this so a wanted to know if it can be shaved again if the need be.

I dont have much knowledge in this area and i am not in Aus, and from my experience the builders here are not 100% trust worthy either and i cannot take their word for it, so when u say pull off the head and measure it....what exactly am i measuring???

Basically i just want to know if the head is within tolerance so i need to know if it has been shaved already,if so how much has it been shaved, and can it be safely shaved again

Also, only aftermarket gaskets are metal right??? so i must know if its a stock or aftermarket head gasket in there right now?

Thanks

You have the option of putting a larger head gasket in to drop the compression back to where it should be. I have a .4 mil shaved head and it raised the compression to 190 across all cylinders. Of course, the rings seem to be in great shape so I would guess .2mil over stock head gasket should get you to a better comp ratio.

Checking a head when you pull it off for warpage should let you know if any more material needs to be removed. If you are OK, then the thicker head gasket should get you back to normal compression. When you pull the head, check the gasket to see if its already a thicker one. If so, you may need to go thicker.

I also have chipped my ECU to almost eliminate the pinging. It pulls the low rpm timing down 5 degrees or so but retains the origional timing at higher rpm. seems to work pretty good so far. If you want the Bin, let me know. I will remove all the injector and MAF scaling to work with a stock engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...