Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's always much more challenging (and expensive) to mod an N/A car sucessfully. As NA_R33 said, exhaust, extractors etc will give you a much better breathing engine, but I'd be very careful about choosing which products to use - a lot of the big bore aftermarket exausts will cause you to lose a lot of low end power/torque, which is exactly what you dont want...:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-622403
Share on other sites

As an example of what I said above, fujitsubo provide quite detailed info on all of their exhausts - here's what a typical power/torque graph looks like:

LegalisR_torque.jpg

Notice power and torque are way down under 3K rpm, but pick up and improve at higher revs. I'm not saying this is typical of all exhausts, but you do have to choose with care, especially with N/A...:)

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-622407
Share on other sites

with all due respect, i have driven a R32 rb20de before with catback exhaust mod before... the car actually felt weaker. The torque is almost completely gone becos there's not enough back pressure for that push. dun forget that you are driving a heavy car that needs plenty of torque for that push. even for my car, rb25de, i felt a decrease in torque but gain abit of it back when i fitted in a silencer... its better balance now at both low and high end power.

my advise is just the air pod and thats it. any other mods like ecu or engine internals are waste of money, esp for an NA car.. trust me, i was in your shoes a while ago and decided to concentrate on the handling of the car instead... such as struts and sways, etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-622534
Share on other sites

I have to agree. At my local circuit most of the N/A racers (civics mainly) always use a small bore exhaust to keep back pressure up. On my current car there is a definite difference in the bottom end power/torque when I add or remove the tail pipe baffle. Generally speaking, if you go for an aftermarket exhaust avoid anything too big and make sure it's designed/tuned for an N/A engine...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-622560
Share on other sites

I had a exhaust made up at my local place for my old GTS, was 2¼" and only had a (large) resonator near the front and a smallish muffler at the back and picked up about 8Kw at the wheels and lost no low down torque, picked up quite a bit in fact. However seeing some GTS's fit 2½" exhausts they did loose low end when redyno'd.. and that includes GTS25's.. but your only going to get fairly small gains no matter what you do in an N/A car... including PVA's suguestion of NOS as I don't think a RB20DE will handle much more than a 50hp shot???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-622854
Share on other sites

Try and get your hands on the last issue of HPI (high Performance Imports mag. It has a white GTR on the front with 900hp.

The is a great story on a N/A 180sx which the guy is trying to get 100rwkw on a tight budget. At the very least it will give you some good ideas for your skyline

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-623542
Share on other sites

internal work is not required for a 70hp nos kit on a gts25 so i dont think 50hp on the 2 ltr would require ne. People have presumptions that nos destroys engines, when used properly, yes it puts more stress on the engine as with ne modifaction but actually allows the engine to run alot cooler due to the chemical reaction that goes on in the combustion chanber which is very benificial to engine.

Has nebody ever considered a computer capable of a dual fuel curve with extra injectors for methanol on the second curve, thereby allowing the engine to be leaned right out with out pinging due to the much cooler methanol running through the engine and giving a considerable power increase kinda of like not so illegal nos?? just a thought....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-623891
Share on other sites

Just do a search on it and see how it works. Basically the nos is broken down by the heat of the engine and when it is broken down it produces oxygen, as the reaction requires heat the process thereby draws heat out of the engine and therefor cools it down.

PVA_GLUE: Thats exactly what im saying, Obviously there will be more stress on the internals but the lower combustion temperatures kinda cancel it out, of course this is only when running relitivly small doses, say 50 to 75 hp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-624140
Share on other sites

Extractors for a RB25 will set back around the $2500 mark. Thats a rough price so call up, but it's not cheap as far as I know. I agree with the bigbore 3" zorst, unless your car can push out that much it can potentially drop the power levels.

Much like a front mount intercooler on a GTST vs the stock one. Because the air has travel much further it takes longer and looses pressure (aka pressure drop). Thus you may be required to run say 8psi instead of 6psi to get the same power than before you had front mount.

However yes the front mount will handle much more boost anything above 10psi whereas the stock may not

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30756-more-rb20de-hp/#findComment-625652
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...