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Mate I have read THAT many turbo threads on here, it is in fact very confusing once it gets into the mathematical side of things for those like me who don't have a perfect grasp on turbocharger design. TBQH most of it is incredibly boring to me and I don't really want to have to know any more than I need to in order to make a selection.

When they say on the GCG website that it has a T25 flange NOT T3, who the f**k is going to think "oh maybe I should ring and see if they do have an IW housing for T3", one would ASSUME that it would be listed alongside the T25 option. That's just common sense.

I was under the impression that I could at least buy a Garrett turbocharger, with the right type exhaust housing more or less off the shelf without having to worry about dodgy bastards trying to use non Garrett exhaust housings, or having to ring up a turbo place and have to ask for them to make me up a custom item, surely not everyone has to do this, how many Skyline owners would be buying turbos!?

In addition to this, given that in one of these recent threads someone mentioned the apparent markup GCG put on their turbos to discourage private buyers, what are some reputable suppliers that do use all of the Garrett housings? It would seem that every suggestion mentioned is dodgy.

I was initially interested in the 3071, but had thought it would need to be leaned on too much to get the power I want out of it, but now it also appears that the 3076 is really too big.

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You don't have to buy from GCG - Just make sure the turbo has those specs, and a Garrett-IW rear.

However, you'll find that most places will be around the same price, as the IW rear is not cheap.

The reason there are so many apparrently "cheaper" options it because they use milled out VG30 housings, T04 wheels and so on all to bring down the cost to "look" like the better buy.

that is basically what I wanted to know, armed with the knowledge that non Garrett rears are going to f**k up compressor maps and efficiency ranges for these turbos, the cheap options are exposed to be to me at least, totally mismatched and therefore a waste of time and money!

Is the Garrett name stamped into the rear housing, and I had noticed that they seem to be more expensive, external gates are completely illegal even if plumbed back riiiight?

TBQH it would seem to be almost the same difference to just buy a HKS turbo lol.

Its frustrating when your in the country, at least at Mildura you should have someone that can make up a rear dump etc, its a big enough place. I hired a car trailer and towed mine [i'm in a smaller town] to a bigger town once I had the exhaust manifold, WG and turbo etc all bolted up.

TBH if you cannot see your way clear to buy a genuine 3076 and the fabrication involved, then I'd save my $$$$ and get a HKS 2835ProS or 3037 kit. They bolt up. Whichever way you go, plan on progressively spending at least a conservative $3-4K, by the time you amass the parts, put them or have them put on, and then get a tune. It all costs, been there done that. I went with the 3076 because I also went with a HKS cast low mount manifold, this stopped me buying anything off the shelf as a kit.

Decided that I'll likely go HKS 2835ProS, less stuffing around, and proven results.

Tridentt150v: you pretty much have to do everything here yourself or with your mates - there aren't any places who deal with turbo cars - the local exhaust shop is so bad I had to get a mate to weld up the gaps last time they did any exhaust work for me. Fkn pathetic. It's easy to get parts though.

I'm only looking at the turbo itself, tuning is another conservative $2k to get the car down to melbourne or adelaide (since the local "tuners" think that Skylines can be tuned by using an adjustable FPR, upping the pressure and cranking the CAS, and I got quoted $110 an hour for Microtech tuning by a guy who's never tuned one)

I accept the fact that there's no cheap way about this, and that I'll have to spend about $4k once I get the turbo, all the bits and pieces and pay a mate to put it in, just for a moment there it seemed that there would be a cheaper alternative, but I'd rather do it once, properly.

Wolverine I had looked at them but I kind of want a turbo in between a high flow and 3076, which is where I think the 2835 or 3071 would fit perfectly :P

It might help Ash if you could sticky some basic information like this, since as I've said before it can be very hard to work out.

then ask for a highflow based on the 3071

mine is a "highflow", based on the 3076.

best bet would be a bolt-on highflow turbo, no other modifications needed

very true Titz, I'd probably want to get a V-band rear so I can reuse my dump/front pipe but it's not a massive deal.

Tangles, I'd rather just have the Garrett / HKS item, after owning a KKR equipped car and being constantly pissed off about it, I'd rather just do it 100% so i KNOW i'm not going to get 6 months down the track and be dissatisfied.

Bozodos,

you really dont strike me as a person who cares much for your chosen hobby. I dont mean to offend you, there are some who want to know the ins and outs of their car and others who just want to drive the thing. That is the whole point of a 'kit', reference the results to what you want and buy the one that matches. As specified today, if you had a factory R33 GTST a HKS kit would mate right up and off you go.

Speaking of 'common sense' as you put it, your entire confusing saga could have been avoided if you had just accepted your interest level in the topic before you started. Its literally as simple as looking what is available to you, HKS kits, hiflows, they all are very easy to bolt up and get working. All you needed to do was reference what was available to you with 30+ pages of results, then pick your poison.

HKS provide for the following, 250KW GTRS, 280KW 2835, 300KW 3037. all come in kits and despite all us other idiots talking about the ultimate combinations of similar based turbos to our applications, we will probably all be hard pressed to beat the HKS alternative.

Sounds like ur sorted anyway, the 2835 is a fine piece of kit, GL.

Ok well i spend an inordinate amount of time scouring these here forums for information GTScoT, it's trying to eliminate conflicting advice which is the hardest part, usually between the people who believe in spending as much money as it takes (usually GT-R owners and those who have a lot of disposable income), and those who are looking to get the bang for their buck, whilst not neccessarily needing to have the perfect combination at parts with all other factors disregarded.

Of course the HKS option is always going to be the easiest way out but I like to explore all avenues before committing down one particular path. I also think that this thread would be benefical to others who are looking at going for a Garrett turbo.

TBQH turbocharger design ins and outs is hard for me to wrap my head around, apart from the basic methods of fitting and their operation. I choose not to dwell on this particular aspect of my car. If i were truly not 'really into' my chosen hobby of car modification, then I would just go straight out and buy a HPIAB or Hypergear "3076", or even a high flow would I not. Some of you people need to understand that not everyone has the same level of comprehension of physics concepts, and that turbo jargon can even be misleading (ie the old Garrett naming system, HKS calling GT28 turbines GT25 etc).

The reason for me originally posting in this thread is due to the fact that my interest was piqued by what seemed like a cheaper version of the 3076 which would bolt directly onto existing fittings etc. When it was pointed out to me that this would result in a mistmatched turbo and really a waste of a good cartridge, I evaluated my options (and yes I've read the dyno thread).

I've asked before about the 3071 and previously been told that they are too small of a turbo to be worth buying for an RB25DET. I have since found out that in the HKS form they are good for up to 280rwkw which suits my need for decent response (to get the porcine gts-4 up and moving), and reasonable power figures (which I believe the high flows lack in over 250rwkw). Also given the cost of say a GCG high flow you may as well go the whole hog and buy an entirely new turbo with more efficient housings.

I agree with you on many points there, perhaps you merely need to witness what I have in order to help make a decision. If your interested your welcome to PM me and ill give you my msn or something where Ill share anything I know on the topic.

Dont get too far ahead of yourself tho, im no scientist like some on this forum.. This is just my chosen topic of interest.. knowing enough to save money and pick out a good turbo is actually fairly simple stuff, and there are benefits to doing so over a kit.. benefits I intend on endeavoring to find lol.

The deal with 2835s and 3071s is the cropped turbine wheel. AFAIK the 2835 turbine wheel was a 60mm GT30 turbine cropped down to something similar to a GT28 sized wheel to better suit smaller housings for response type applications. The actual benefits/disadvantages to the cropped wheel I am currently trying to understand.. but from what it seems, boost control on the full sized wheel in a small housing could be an issue..

Hopefully disco will come to my aid on the topic of the cropped turbine in the 2835.. a why and a resulting benefit/disadvantage would just about fulfill my personal required knowledge on the 3071 platform.. Then I have the fun of moving onto comparing that to a 52T cartridge.. which im currently looking for comp maps to plot.. garrett dont have them up.

Anyone got the comp map for the 52T 76mm compressor?

Well I was kind of curious about the whole cropped wheel thing too... the best known result I can think of is joeyjoeshablablabla who's made 280rwkw with one of these turbos, so there mustn't be too much of a deficiency there. There are still quite a few variations of this turbo though, I was looking at the one with the .87 rear (IIRC) so that i'd get more top end out of it.

The only real life experience I have with a HKS turbo is seeing and driving a HKS 2540 powered NEO in an untuned HR31 and it really blew me away with seat of the pants feeling and response. I imagine that it would'nt gain much more from tuning though given the reletively small size.

Well can't believe I read the whole thread. There are many options around. Already a whole bunch of people now making a bolton Turbo for RB25 engines with what ever A/Rs you want with what ever CHRA and now Garrett has joint the team. There is nothing new.

There still is one problem that is boost control. Looks likes no one has ever managed to get a flat boost curve with internally gated turbo. Regardless if that is Garrett IW, AVO, HyperGear, GCG or who ever. The CHRA is not going to perform at its true potential unless it can hold 20psi to red line. Till then all you only get around 270rwkws unless you spent that extra grand for a decent external gate, manifold and exhaust setup. (Till cops find out, and start all over again lol).

So till some one can make a bolton turbine housing with a wastegate that can actually hold boost, there really isn't much point going any thing beyond a 3071 size CHRA.

who the hell said they cant hold boost without an external gate? and who said they wont make their power unless its at 20psi? 20psi on a 3071 is off the map for efficiency on an RB25 by redline.

sounds like you were looking for lemon party but found the current GT30 thread...........

anything other than factory is a defect, an external gate is a defect and nothing more.

if it is plumbed into the exhaust system like it should be it an engineer can provide a certificate to legalize its use.

who the hell said they cant hold boost without an external gate? and who said they wont make their power unless its at 20psi? 20psi on a 3071 is off the map for efficiency on an RB25 by redline.

sounds like you were looking for lemon party but found the current GT30 thread...........

Check the RB25 dyno sheet section. You will find pretty much all internal gated turbos on RB25det spikes up midrange then drops off red line.

Plus every thing think the boost drop is due to their boost controller which is really the nature of their internal gating.

Edited by kwickr33
Anyone got the comp map for the 52T 76mm compressor?

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...159-1comp_e.jpg

Click on this link, a close approximation to what you should expect.

Dale, always one step ahead of me haha... thats perfect mate thanks, i can get busy with it now. Dont ask me why i didnt think of that already LOL :D ill PM you the graph once its plotted

kwikr33, your still stabbing in the dark. take a better look, ppl have fixed that issue with big can actuators while others have never had the issue.. each setup is different and the issue causing it different along with it.

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