Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EDIT: I must be clear; this is a shortblock that i purchased here in canada. I have no ideas about it previous running condition or lack thereof. The guy who i bought it from said it had excellent compression, thats all.

So i pull the harmonic balancer and goto pull the timing pulley and i notice its kind of loose.

I finally jiggle it off and i see this:

SDC10761.JPG

Any idea what the hell happened? Looks quite severe. You dont just mash through a keyway like that easily... There obviously had to be a difference in torque on the crank between the rotating assembly and the timing belt for something like that to happen.

SDC10762.JPG

I dont think id trust the timing gear again...

SDC10764.JPG

Whats left of the pillaged key.

I think i can save the crank by milling the keyway straight through and making custom keys. There was no evidence of this at all when the harmonic balancer was on. Everything seemed tight and the bottom end spun nicely by hand. Any ideas anyone? Is the crank salvageable?

Edited by ST240
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307684-rb30-severe-crank-damage-pics/
Share on other sites

Personally I'll bet the balancer bolt was left loose at some stage,,,the gear has moved in and out of the crank,,,killed a belt and the previous owned slapped it back together and sold it to you. That crank is in a bad way,,,normally I would be happy to fix it but thats very bad.

Neil.

:P . anyone have a crank?

I'm going to see if the crank is damaged otherwise. If not I am going to attempt to mill a keyway 180 degress from that set and i should be away.

PS: DiRTgarage can you please email me at andrem85 @ telus dot net and we can discuss futher. I can pm until i have a post count of 10 and i dont feel like spamming this great board up you folks have just so i can pm you back :D .

Edited by ST240

Mine did that from a bolt not being tight enough. Had a new crank keyway milled into the opposite side (180deg) when I was rebuilding my eng.

No probs, just be aware that the timing mark on the crank gear will be 180deg out.

Good to hear guys. Thanks so much for the replies! Glad im not the only one; and that the damage isnt the end of the world :) . I have the pistons out, working on the girdle right now. The rod bearings look slightly worn, but maybe its normal. I borrowed some telescopic gauges, a micrometer and a dial gauge from my machinist to measure it all up.

I'll post some pics up and see what you guys think.

Ok so with everything apart, here are some pics. These pics were the worst i saw. Some were worn like this, some weren't:

SDC10767.JPG

Rod

SDC10771.JPG

Another rod.

SDC10774.JPG

Center bearing. Seems like its getting some thrust wear. In any of the above pics, you can't actually feel the "wear" with your finger nail, you can just see it.

SDC10785.JPG

Last but not least, i measured runout. I removed all the bearings except the outter two which made sense to me, otherwise the other bearings might interfere, effectively lifting the crank up when it is rotated, showing less runout than there actually is. It was only out about 1.5 thou, which is 3.8 mm. Happy days!

So my big question to you experts is: replace the bearings, or not? I'm no expert so I'm not sure to what degree the bearings are worn. All I know is they don't look super prestine haha. I guess I might as well while she's apart. Futhermore, it looks like quite the rigamarole to mic out all the bearings so i might as well do that with new ones.

Edited by ST240

no. its 0.6mm

looks like its not had the oil changed for ages. or has had a lrg gas conversion and the oil has been nitrated. (acidified from the lpg and not using a lpg oil)

and yeah, loose crank pully. although ive not seen it happen on the timing gear, but rather the crank pulley key way.

it can be fixed pretty easily, you need to get a good quality ceramic tile. shape it with a angle grinder to make a dummy key. get a good mig welder and fill the dammaged part of the crank with weld, then linish it back to round and remove the tile, you will have a good strong keyway slot.

not ideal but provided the crank pully does not come loose again, will last forever.

no. its 0.6mm

looks like its not had the oil changed for ages. or has had a lrg gas conversion and the oil has been nitrated. (acidified from the lpg and not using a lpg oil)

and yeah, loose crank pully. although ive not seen it happen on the timing gear, but rather the crank pulley key way.

it can be fixed pretty easily, you need to get a good quality ceramic tile. shape it with a angle grinder to make a dummy key. get a good mig welder and fill the dammaged part of the crank with weld, then linish it back to round and remove the tile, you will have a good strong keyway slot.

not ideal but provided the crank pully does not come loose again, will last forever.

I'd rather not weld anything at this point; Id rather machine a keyway on the other side. I think welding is last resort.

I made a typo. Its 0.038 mm no? Lol anyone else got an estimate? And to think we're trying to build engines here :) .

Futher to this damage, It looks like something got in one of the cylinders at one point:

SDC10791.JPG

But i think i can reuse that piston. What do you guys think? There was some slight scoring (you can just barely feel it with your nail) in the bore too upon closer inspection which I'm hoping can improved by honing. I don't know what amount of scoring is acceptable before you need a rebore. Can anyone comment?

reuse it?

at a minimum i would be binning the rod,s crank and pistons and starting with fresh items (good cond 2nd hand crank) with new rings and bearings, then you'll have a half decent engine...

Lol :) . I was just going to do a build on stock RB30E internals for a "low" ( :) ) power application for this summer then go forged/full build next summer. You don't think I should reuse anything?! That's a bit extreme no?

Hi.

What you need to do is take crank rods pistons to a machine shop who know what they are doing. Explain your situation to them re rebuilding in the short term and have them measure everything up and be guided by them- ask questions re honing and bore wear. Ive seen much worse pistons used succesfully in the past.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...