Jump to content
SAU Community

Do Spacers Wreck Wheel Bearings?


Recommended Posts

hey guys

was considering putting wheels on my car that need spacers... (only small spacers but still) but i have been told spacers wreck wheel bearings...

is this true?

has this happened to anyone on sau?

thanks in advance :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer i understand that moving the weight out puts more stress as they are further away. but does it actually wreck them...? and if it was only about 5mm would this make much of a difference? need to no some answers to help my decision on new wheels

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5mm slip on's are not going to put that much more stress on the hubs.

Any spacer used should be hubcentric so the load is on the hub and not the wheel studs.

Going to a lower offset, especially -offsets can also cause a shorter life for wheel bearings. Same as a spacer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only impact of a properly designed spacer is the increased load on the hub from leverage. And as said above that is exaclty the same as moving to a lower offset wheel.

much more important is "hubcentric". basically a wheel stud's job is to clamp the wheel to the hub, not locate it correctly. You must have a "hubcentric" fit between the wheel and the hub, this means that the wheel should be held in the right place by the hub not by the wheel studs. If you can put the wheel on without wheel nuts and rotate it a little it is not hubcentric.

basically a hub has a ring in the middle, and the wheel should be a tight fit on that. if you add a spacer it must fit snugly on the hub, and the wheel must be located on that as well. I have never seen a slip on spacer that has a hub ring to locate the wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

basically a hub has a ring in the middle, and the wheel should be a tight fit on that. if you add a spacer it must fit snugly on the hub, and the wheel must be located on that as well. I have never seen a slip on spacer that has a hub ring to locate the wheel.

and that's why spacer rings are typically illegal

you don't wanna be losing a wheel after your studs shear through :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only impact of a properly designed spacer is the increased load on the hub from leverage. And as said above that is exaclty the same as moving to a lower offset wheel.

much more important is "hubcentric". basically a wheel stud's job is to clamp the wheel to the hub, not locate it correctly. You must have a "hubcentric" fit between the wheel and the hub, this means that the wheel should be held in the right place by the hub not by the wheel studs. If you can put the wheel on without wheel nuts and rotate it a little it is not hubcentric.

basically a hub has a ring in the middle, and the wheel should be a tight fit on that. if you add a spacer it must fit snugly on the hub, and the wheel must be located on that as well. I have never seen a slip on spacer that has a hub ring to locate the wheel.

This is part of the reason I run nissan rims on the track (33 GTR). Even my very expensive ADVAN RS's are not hubcentric beacause they are generic fit. What are your thoughts on this duncan?

Also thinking about it. Having a +30 offset can't be much different to -30. Ideally a wheel with a 0 offset would be the best thing for bearing life. true?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess having wheels at the centre of the car would reduce bearing load most, and having them hanging out would increase it the most....but perhaps the handling would suffer :D basically the extra load is just from the extra track width and the extra grip it brings...no magic to it.

having hubcentric wheels is really important for track use. It is easy to get hold of plastic locating rings once you have the hub diameter and wheel's inner diameter. Or like you said use the factory wheels 32/33/34 all locate correctly on the hub. With the current targa rules, r33 wheels are excellent for an r32

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use metal hubcentric rings instead of plastic - plastic melts.

With +30 and -30 offset... -30 would have a much bigger load because of the extra arm length/leverage in relation to the turn.

Spacers/lower offset doesn't "wreck" bearings or sheer the studs themselves, but they certainly do put exponentially more load on them so you can expect a shorter service life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is part of the reason I run nissan rims on the track (33 GTR). Even my very expensive ADVAN RS's are not hubcentric beacause they are generic fit. What are your thoughts on this duncan?

get some locating rings..... just need to measure the hub diamater and the wheels diamater and your set... bob jane et al stock them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get some locating rings..... just need to measure the hub diamater and the wheels diamater and your set... bob jane et al stock them

Thanks for the info. I'll do that coz I didn't realise they were available. What are they generally made of? Alloy or steel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

hey. i have a31 cefiro and have a set of r32 gtr rims. i have the hubs off a stock r32 with r32 gtr brakes. went to put the wheel on and the inner tyre wall is rubbing on my tiens. would spacers be the go in this situation. if so can anyone point me in the right direction of were i could get some. im in perth. cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also for locating rings, can get a machinist to make some from aluminium with slight interference fit to the wheels, and leave them in the other wheels. Better then the plastic ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...