Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good idea, but heat wrap is made to withstand red hot exhaust temperatures, and your intercooler pipes will look horrible. Also the stuff is not exactly cheap.

Go to Clarke Rubber and buy some sponge neoprene sheet, its the stuff wet-suits are made from. It is dull black, and does not look out of place in an engine compartment, and it comes in a wide range of thicknesses.

It stretches a fair bit, and with a pair of scissors, some contact adhesive, and a bit of imagination you can do a first class job around those tricky bends. I bought a can of Quick Grip adhesive. Its the stuff you smear on both surfaces and allow to dry, and any showing afterward wipes off with a petrol soaked rag.

I have done this a few times and have been completely happy with the results. This stuff is a really good thermal insulator, and its waterproof.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622519
Share on other sites

yeh id heat wrap the dump pipe and even put a heat bag over the bak half of the turbo keep engine bay temps down and allows the heat to move faster, as for the coola pipes, id get them hpc coated, looks way nicer then heat wrap and basically does the same thing, but cost a bit more to do(note u can also do this to manifolds etc)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622598
Share on other sites

HPC is going to be the best, money no object solution.

Wrapping is not going to look as nice, but if neatly done should work just as well. Do not forget that heat shields are also very effective and low cost where you have very high temperature parts. These should be shiny aluminium or stainless, and reflect most of the infrared radiation back to the source.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622608
Share on other sites

I bought some and then returned the product after doing a lot of research on it.

Basically it works. You can pretty much touch the manifold by hand after you have done 20 laps of a track and you will not get burnt (if you touched it without the wrap you'd get a nasty injury!!!).

They wrap stuff in race cars all the time. It does work but it will wear out your parts a lot quicker. The wrap keeps the heat in, thus after your car is turned off, the heat doesn't go away... ie: your manifolds etc are still hot and will stay that way for ages. Thus more stress.

Read the fine print on many exhaust manufacturers sites/documentation: they will not cover (warranty) their products if they are wrapped in heat wrap.

Ask people who work at exhaust shops too. eg: Ask Lambros at High Tech mufflers and he will be the 1st to tell you that heat wrap will destroy your manifold quickly via cracks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622643
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm keen for this content to 😂
    • Hi All, I'm based in Sydney and want to get hold of 4 stock R34 GTT wheel caps as pictured. Cheers
    • Haha im flattered! Although my poor boat is collecting dust in the garage, as it hasn’t been driven in like 6 months. I forgot the to put the trickle charger on too, so the battery is likely toast now.. I have the frenchys kit. It is fantastic. My only gripe was that the hard lines from the firewall needed some tweaking, however, this was mainly due to my specific turbo and dump combo. The weight and size packaging is much nicer too. I think I have some pics on my build thread somewhere.. my justification for the kit was more “why not” I had gone to the trouble to modernise just about every other part of the car..
    • Actually, ethanol has probably never been cheaper, on a tax free basis, than petrol. With fuel excise being what it is, and only being levied on the hydocarbon component, not the ethanol component, and ethanol for non-drinking purposes not being subject to liquor excise - E85 was cheaper, but not because the combustible liquid itself was particularly cheaper.
    • Maybe? If changing the cat to a higher flowing cat, caused the turbo to spool more quickly, and those areas of the map had not been tuned for the boost level it is now seeing, then yes you would need a re-tune. How dangerous it is running without the updated tune would depend on how far out the tune is with the now higher boost levels, how the engine protection has been setup, is the ECU compensating with a wideband sensor, is the boost control closed loop blah blah million other things... But yeah having said that, I wouldn't be surprised if changing out the cat for a high flow, in say a full 3" exhaust, made no noticeable difference at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...