Jump to content
SAU Community

Jade Green R32 Gtr Single Turbo - $13900

GreenR32GTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

GreenR32GTR Contributor

GreenR32GTR

Posted
Posted

*** photos and mobile number will be supplied later this evening ***

PRICE - $13900

For sale is my 1989 R32 GTR. Car was imported personally by myself in 2004, since which time it has undergone a jade green metallic re-spray, recently had a full engine rebuild with TO4Z single turbo fitted, and had an extensive list of modifications fitted. Most of this work was done by its previous owner (who swapped the car with me back in 2006) prior to my swapping the car back again just last week..

I don’t need the car (have too many – and am running out of space - which may answer any questions about swapping), so I’m happy to let it go for a pretty cheap cash price.

But first;

The Good

· The engine was fully rebuilt by Phil Young Automotive only 5,000km ago, with the following;

o Balanced crank

o Balanced stock GTR rods

o Complete re-conditioned head, valves, guides (everything)

o Stock GTR cams

o CP Forged pistons

o ACL race series bearings

o All new gaskets

o Metal head gasket

o ARP Head studs

o N1 Oil pump fitted

o New water pump

· Brand new Garrett 700HP T04z Turbo fitted at the same time

· Brand new Exeedy clutch fitted (whilst engine was out)

· Apexi Power FC

· Nismo S/S exhaust system

· Custom Dumpipe

· ETM Highmount exhaust manifold

· Greddy twin afm Intake pipe

· HKS 82mm cooler piping kit

· Bosch 023 In-tank fuel pump

· Blitz 700cc Injectors

· Turbosmart 50mm External Wastegate

· Z32 air flow meters

· HKS Mushroom filters

· Speed flow oil/water lines

· and much much more....

Also

· LED tail lights installed

· AB Flug style carbonfibre bonnet

· ganador style aero mirrors

· Garage Saurus front lip

· New front racing seats

· Nizmo Strut brace

· HKS suspension

· Drilled Rear rotors

· Greddy turbo timer

· sports wheel

· again and much more...

· Just had 6mths rego put on it

· Custom plates BNR032

The Bad

· Some minor cosmetic pieces are missing (such as an interior dash vent) or broken (such as the rear reversing light)

· Car is now fitted with stock wheels – not the wheels shown in the photos – and has pretty crappy tyres fitted

The Ugly

· Minor chips in some of the paint work, minor cracks in bodykit – have been quoted $1350 to get it looking good as new from front to back. I can arrange this if requested by the buyer (at the price I have mentioned).

· Could do with a tune – idles a bit rich which I’ve been advised is due to not having plumb-back BOV’s fitted

Questions?

· I will consider trades but seriously – at the price I’m asking – you’d be wasting your time thinking your car is worth top $$$ when I’m not asking the same for mine. So if it’s a realistic offer – either cash my way or yours (I don’t mind) – then I’ll consider it. Preference is on a cash sale or a trade that offers me as much cash as is possible. No shi**ers or even cheaper imports though – something like a late 90’s Magna which I can use as a runabout will be OK. Also happy to put cash on top for a better / newer car, but would have to be a great deal, as I’m really not interested in forking out even more cash for a car that will just sit around.

· No test drives (even as a passenger) until a hefty deposit is put down. Happy for a mechanical inspection by a reputable mechanic to be done at my place.

Serious enquiries are welcome by PM on this forum (don’t reply – cos this post will be 3 pages back by the end of the day and I don’t intend to check it constantly.)

********I will supply photos and my mobile later this evening*********

cheers,

jezza

drifter1 Rookie

drifter1

Posted
Posted

· Could do with a tune – idles a bit rich which I’ve been advised is due to not having plumb-back BOV’s fitted

At idle the bov are not open at all so there is no way that they could cause a rich condition. Good luck with the sale though, I am looking forward to some pictures.

GreenR32GTR Contributor

GreenR32GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BUMP - first and only price drop to $12500. if I can't sell a car as good as this at a price this low, I'll simply tidy it up myself and keep it!

no offers or trades or swaps at this price - cash only.

Drift Motorsport Community Regular

Drift Motorsport

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, I've sent 2 pms - please reply with your phone number so I can talk to you regarding the car.

Keen buyer, no bs.

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

Could do with a tune – idles a bit rich which I’ve been advised is due to not having plumb-back BOV’s fitted

At idle the bov are not open at all so there is no way that they could cause a rich condition. Good luck with the sale though, I am looking forward to some pictures.

I believe this is incorrect, I believe the stock BOVs open at idle but after market ones do not.. hence different idle.

GreenR32GTR Contributor

GreenR32GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
looking to import one in the next few weeks, so if you can pm me your details I will contact you.

if you are looking to import one then I don't see what relevance my contact details will be.

do you mean looking to buy one? if so, and given your '1' posting status - perhaps you'll be kind enough to send me your details....

pattyd89 Contributor

pattyd89

Posted
Posted

That's fine, don't need details anymore, sorry for the misunderstanding.

I was going to consider coming to Hobart (from Melbourne) to inspect, but as of today my agent found me a '32 GTR with most of what I asked for in my search criteria so I think this is the one.

However, good luck with the sale!

GreenR32GTR Contributor

GreenR32GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I was going to consider coming to Hobart (from Melbourne) to inspect, but as of today my agent found me a '32 GTR with most of what I asked for in my search criteria so I think this is the one.

However, good luck with the sale!

highly doubt it but hey - I'll take the free bump.

GreenR32GTR Contributor

GreenR32GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys - first of all, my apologies for the bump to this thread again. I appreciate that this is not entirely fair to others selling their cars, so I hope that what I am writing here is loud and clear, because I am a fan of putting 'relevant information' into a thread, so that I do not need to reply by PM all the time. As I have been getting lots of timewasters by PM, please note;

* It is not my concern if you live in Darwin, Afghanistan or the dark side of the moon. Just because you are faced with exorbitant freight costs is not my concern. If it is $2K to get to the top of Aus, you can add this to the cost of the car, not deduct it from the sale price. This should make perfect sense to all of you (except for those incapable of it).

* The price already reflects necessary repairs to the vehicle in consideration that it is less than 100%, and certainly not 'as new'. Again, if you want to fit a set of 19 x 12 BBS rims and flare the guards, this is (again) not my concern or my problem. If you want to re-spray it fencepost brown (nobody has suggested this, it's an example to protect the stupid), then ADD the $5K cost to the price.

* I will not accept trades or swaps at this price. Furthermore, please no offers of obscure items (boat, jetski, ...... I'll probably be offered a motorised wheelchair from someone's dead uncle next)

As I have probably already mentioned, if you are serious about getting a GTR, and you;

* want one with modifications as opposed to stock

* want one that will turn heads rather than be a 'sleeper'

* live in Tas or Vic (but not WA, Qld, etc)

then I'd be surprised if there is any better on offer. However, if you do live further away, or you want a stock one, etc etc - then this is not for you, and I'll ask you to think about these factors BEFORE you send me a PM.

Rant over!

Cheers,

jez

2JZ35R Rookie

2JZ35R

Posted
Posted
Guys - first of all, my apologies for the bump to this thread again. I appreciate that this is not entirely fair to others selling their cars, so I hope that what I am writing here is loud and clear, because I am a fan of putting 'relevant information' into a thread, so that I do not need to reply by PM all the time. As I have been getting lots of timewasters by PM, please note;

* It is not my concern if you live in Darwin, Afghanistan or the dark side of the moon. Just because you are faced with exorbitant freight costs is not my concern. If it is $2K to get to the top of Aus, you can add this to the cost of the car, not deduct it from the sale price. This should make perfect sense to all of you (except for those incapable of it).

* The price already reflects necessary repairs to the vehicle in consideration that it is less than 100%, and certainly not 'as new'. Again, if you want to fit a set of 19 x 12 BBS rims and flare the guards, this is (again) not my concern or my problem. If you want to re-spray it fencepost brown (nobody has suggested this, it's an example to protect the stupid), then ADD the $5K cost to the price.

* I will not accept trades or swaps at this price. Furthermore, please no offers of obscure items (boat, jetski, ...... I'll probably be offered a motorised wheelchair from someone's dead uncle next)

As I have probably already mentioned, if you are serious about getting a GTR, and you;

* want one with modifications as opposed to stock

* want one that will turn heads rather than be a 'sleeper'

* live in Tas or Vic (but not WA, Qld, etc)

then I'd be surprised if there is any better on offer. However, if you do live further away, or you want a stock one, etc etc - then this is not for you, and I'll ask you to think about these factors BEFORE you send me a PM.

Rant over!

Cheers,

jez

Hey Jez,

I would love to still trade for the supra, but im parting it out, If you can get this rwc ill pay extra obviously, only interested if it can be registered and comes with rwc.

Have money available after 27th March once my engine sells.

Let me know via sms on 0439 318 110 if you can get rwc or not as I can see it becoming a huge issue getting rwc based on how difficult it was for me to get rwc in Vic with my setup.

I just want a trouble free transfer and to be able to drive the car this time over.

Thanks,

James

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...