Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys'n'Gals (not sure if this is the right forum, moderators please move if not)

I am in the process of putting an RB20 DET into an my S13 and, as I also have an R32 GTR which is currently being dry sumped by Dazmo, one of the true genltemen in our sport, I thought I would install two factory standard rb26 turbos onto the RB20 rather than going to a high mount. I am getting steamer pipe manifolds made as two of the head/manifold studs didn't line up with the RB26 manifold. Would have used the RB26 plenum as well and triple throttle bodies but the intake venturies on the RB20 are tapered and would not allow any flow increase from having extra throttle bodies so went with an aftermarket plenum and 85mm throttle body. Also went with MAP sensing rather than AFMs.

The car will have two tunes in its Microtec LT12, one for me to do circuit work with a rear wheel drive car and one for my son to learn drifting. I am aiming for about 300rwhp and will eventually swap the Garret 2860-7 turrbos from my GTR with -5s and put the -7s into the S13. I am not sure how laggy the S13 will be for circuit work, should be fine for driftin. Have considered using an exhaust cam off a non turbo RB20 which has a slightly higher lift or going to an after market cam with a few degree longer opening (if that is the correct terminoligy) to increase the exhaust gasses to the turbos.

I would really appreciate any constructive Tips or Traps to look out for with this build from anyone who has done this type of conversion before.

Thanks

Pete

PS. Lookout for my R32 once Dazmo has finished with it. Can't say I will be able to to get to 'Holy Grail' status at Willowbank but I bet Darren will.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308012-rb20-dett-s13-conversion/
Share on other sites

someone here did GTR turbo's onto a 20 a while ago... there was nothing below 4500-5000rpm from memory, it'll be a very peaky setup.

More than it should be anyway... then you've added a larger plenum and TB so it could be a little bit nastier again inbetween gear changes.

Someone here will remember who did it... was a thread about it actually.

someone here did GTR turbo's onto a 20 a while ago... there was nothing below 4500-5000rpm from memory, it'll be a very peaky setup.

More than it should be anyway... then you've added a larger plenum and TB so it could be a little bit nastier again inbetween gear changes.

Someone here will remember who did it... was a thread about it actually.

theres never anything below 4g on an rb20 anyway unless it has stock turbo. 

You dont need different tunes, its a common misconception even more relevant with a microtech as it has the most basic calculations to determine mapping, the way an engine pulls through the mapping will be no different between drifting or circuit. One tune will do. Having done a few rb conversions (our current one attached (430rwkw)) i must admit they are a dog to circuit, they require allot of work just to get back to where you were with the SR20. Im a big fan of RB20's but in a s13 they offer to much weight over the front axle centerline and have poor low end performance a good SR20 will always be a better proposition. We run a RB26 in our current car and the work to get it to handle like it did with a 300rwkw SR20 was quite astounding and even then it is still compromise. Those who say a RB powered S13 handle well unfortunately must have never experienced "decent" handling :nyaanyaa:

The twin setup would be ultra laggy and pretty bad for drifting especially a beginner (a beginner needs power on demand to make up for small mistakes) i reckon a realistic boost peak at around 5000-5300rpm and you would need to up the limiter to about 8500 and up just to keep a decent power band that is useable.

If your dead set on the rb20 then look at a TD06SL2-20g (i can now source them internally gated) it is probably the best all round turbo kit we have seen or used on the rb20 (with minor mods) again see attached

post-34927-1265979208_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1265979244_thumb.jpg

Oh ye i appreciate no turbo is "responsive" on the ole RB20

What i mean is the GTR twins, plus larger plenum, plus single TB and so on... it's going to be REALLY bad for the power that it will make.

I would be surprised if there is anything below 5000rpm. A 2530 would do a better job and give you at least 500rpm extra, and a nicer throttle response in between gears and so on.

5000rpm before anything starts for a peak of 240rwkw (GTR turbos) is not really at all productive. You'd be lucky to be making 200rwkw @ 6000rpm

When the RB26 cops a 2.8L crank then the lil twin turbo will love the 2.6L crank :nyaanyaa: I know i sometimes think about going -7s on an RB24...but manifolding, cost of two turbos and complexity/packaging means i like singles. But done properly it cant be any worse then running a big single. Can it? :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
×
×
  • Create New...