Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The R34 has panel type filters in the air conditioning duct, between the fan and the evaporator.

I do have it with detailed pictures in a word doc, but it is too big for an attachment on this forum. Text only to follow...............

R34 Air Conditioning Air Filters:

SAFETY>>>>>>>>>>>All yellow wiring is related to the AirBag System. If necessary, disconnect battery before starting work

The R34 model has 2 panel-type air filters, to ensure clean air is passed through the evaporator coils. (I haven’t seen this feature on any other car before.)

Like any other filter, they also need to be cleaned, so here is some info that might make it easier next time. (It’s like brain surgery………….., easy….. when you know how.)

1. Remove the passengers-side sill trim (lever up with screwdriver, attached in 4 places)

2. Remove passengers-side kick-panel (unscrew plastic nut on firewall stud, and lever front edge off with screwdriver, attached in 2 places.)

3. Pull off rubber door sealing strip to top of dashboard.

4. Remove glovebox, by:

a. Removing the 2 lower hinge pins (by sliding inwards to unclip). Partially remove the glovebox lid, being careful not to break the tension string.

b. Remove the screw at the lower RHS of the glovebox assy, as shown below.

c. Remove 4 screws along the top edge of the glovebox.

d. Remove the screw at the lower LHS of the glovebox.

e. Disconnect the Glovebox-light cable, and remove the entire assy. The car should look like this now…

f. Remove the black spring clip on the lower edge of the white vertical filter cover, and gently lift the cover upwards.

g. Remove the 2 panel filters by sliding out the lower one first, and then the top one will fall down.

h. Remove the white fibre concertina element (dust filter), from both panels, gently clean with compressed air, then wash in hot water and detergent.

i. Remove the black honeycomb element (deodorising filter), from both panels, and very gently clean with compressed air only.

If you clean these elements carefully, they can be reused, as I would hate to think what a replacement filter would be worth.

The filters on my car were absolutely filthy…a fine specimen of the air quality in Tokyo I suppose!

Assemble parts in the reverse order, but pay particular attention to the alignment pin above the screw, on the lower RHS of the glovebox assy. See Fig 1 above.

As with all plastic parts on cars, don’t use excessive force to remove or replace them.

Hope this helps any fellow R34 owners.

Regards,

GK.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30811-r34-air-cond-air-filter-maint/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Yeah I did all this a little while ago when installing my e-manage.....which now resides on the vent covering the A/C....I only had little bit of crap in there...probably a load of Japanese seeds :( better get the Croc Hunter and quarantine onto it...crikey!

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have one and it was at ~43.5PSI.
    • Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
    • I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing
    • I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work  
×
×
  • Create New...