The Ls1 R33 Of Fury

[BOZ22N]

Both modules are for the fuel pump they need to stay

[MBS206]

Both modules are for the fuel pump they need to stay

Cheers Ryan.

Going to go all custom wiring. Fuel pump was already earthed out to run permanent 12V once the ECU told the pump to turn on. Will put a decent new relay on it, and all new wiring.

From what I understand those things are only useful when running the funky ECU speed controlled stuff.

[The Bogan]

Doesnt the two stage pump thingie stop the fuel from getting to hot by slowing the flow at a certain RPM, colder fuel helps cool the cylinder?? I think???

Mine pumps more from 2k if my ear is calibrated with my brain, but then thats a big ask.

[MBS206]

Doesnt the two stage pump thingie stop the fuel from getting to hot by slowing the flow at a certain RPM, colder fuel helps cool the cylinder?? I think???

Mine pumps more from 2k if my ear is calibrated with my brain, but then thats a big ask.

Yeah, that's what it's designed to do. Mainly to stop cars in traffic from over heating the fuel.

Car is track only, so it's going to spend most of it's time >3000RPM anyway, so fuel pump will always be cranked up.

[Neil]

Along with all of that, this was on the drivers side, just under the back window... I believe it is the high speed fuel pump relay? Can someone confirm?

Also, this box sits bolted to the inside of the rear guard beside the aerial unit... Is it apart of the aerial stuff or for some other lighting?

Matt,,,both can go,,,don't ask me how to rid yourself of the fuel pump one but mines in the junk box.

Cheers

Neil.

[BOZ22N]

If you are not running the factory ecu and engine you can get rid of them just make sure the pump/s are wired up to meet the cams regulations.

Neil do you still run the key for the ignition? I think the rule is if the engine stalls and the ignition is on the fuel pump must shut off, not 100% but worth a look.

Good luck

[Craved]

fuel one is easy, you just jumper the 2 earth pins on the plug to that unit under the parcel tray and its on 100% full voltage

[MBS206]

If you are not running the factory ecu and engine you can get rid of them just make sure the pump/s are wired up to meet the cams regulations.

Neil do you still run the key for the ignition? I think the rule is if the engine stalls and the ignition is on the fuel pump must shut off, not 100% but worth a look.

Good luck

Yeah the ECU is going to be setup to switch the fuel pump. Pretty much like normal, once the ECU loses an RPM signal it'll kill the pump.

When first turning it on, make it prime for 3 seconds.

[MBS206]

fuel one is easy, you just jumper the 2 earth pins on the plug to that unit under the parcel tray and its on 100% full voltage

That still leaves wires that add a small amount of weight...

The wiring is gone now too... LOL... Custom relay and cabling time...

[Craved]

if the ECU cant easily switch the pump, get an LPG relay from an LPG fitter - has a tach signal wire so it cuts out at loss of pulse i.e. stall -------

[boiracer]

the box under the window cant be fuel pump related. the original speak wires run thru it, and ive left it unplugged once while i had the shelf out and made no difference to the car...just the already poor stereo sound.

the other box, no idea.

[The Bogan]

How's this thing coming along ??

[MBS206]

It's been hiding under covers for about 6 months straight.

It moves to a new home soon, and then we will have progress again!

[MBS206]

lol cam. only 1. how quaint.

What is the plan for the starter motor Matt....stuffed if I can see how it will fit?

who needs a starter motor when your mates can push, LOL.

Right now... My wallet thinks this is the answer...

The even funnier part? I really do have these stickers for the car already... LOL

I'm about to order a starter motor relocator, just waiting for pay day.

edit: and yes, the car sat at my mothers for nearly a year (So much for 6 weeks Mum!)

[zebra]

About bloody time lol

[zebra]

Oh shit....cant remember if I told you about this stuff before....if I didnt I meant to ages ago

http://www.isispower.com/

Havent used it personally but looks like good shit for ease of wiring up stuff

[Captain Natro]

Am about to under take a similar project, VY ls1 into r33 using a 4l60e for street/drag duties... Searching for workshops ATM. Goodbye bank account ...

[badben]

I did try to pm ya, but wont let me.

hey matt,

I want to ask why you chosse the gen3 ls1 of all the LS series engines?

There are quite a few in the range.

They are solid engine, as i've owned 1 before.

I really wanted to say, avoid 2nd hand gen 3 ls1's from VT SS series 2 and VX SS series 1 ( unless your rebuilding) as they had a problem termed 'piston slap'. Basically holden just through in these engines that were spec'd to american conditions so the bore to piston tolerances were quite big, to deal with the extreme change in hot and cold temp's they have, so they used excessive amounts of oil and the piston would slap against the block, ultimately killing engines. With my VX SS series 1, holden had to replace the engine at about 35000km's with a revised ls1 that continued in the VX series 2 and beyond

Also when you dump the ls1 into your 33, can the car continue to be 4wd or just rwd?

Edited November 16, 2012 by badben

[bozodos]

nearly all of the piston slapping LS1's have been replaced by now..

He's probably using an LS1 because an LS2 / L76/98 is 2-2.5 times dearer second hand (think 2-3k vs 5-7), and about 3-4k dearer new. You can still get good power out of even the 853 (small port VT) headed LS1's, cam selection is important, and heads can be sourced relatively cheap from the US. Keen to see some more on this project btw, I'm a big fan of LS swaps into anything Jap

Would be keeping in mind PTV clearance if going for big lift on the cam, IMO keep the lift sane and shave the heads to get a bit more comp into it. Would recommend the Comp LSr 269 cam for your build (got one for my L76!) decent lift, nice quick ramp rates to make good power under the curve, and will make bulk torque. Have driven a WH with the Crow equivalent (or thereabouts) and was seriously impressed, given how doughy down low stock LS1s seem to be.

EDIT: Haven't read the entire thread, but are you going to stick with a JDM exhaust (will need a single 3.5 at least depending on power) Get 1 7/8 headers made up if you can, its been tested and proven that you only gain top end and dont lose any down low vs smaller primaries. Curious as to how that side of the swap works out.

Edited January 10, 2013 by bozodos

[MBS206]

Boz, unfortunately this one has been buried at the moment (Literally, you can't really get to it at all ). There are plans to resurrect it in the next few months, but I have another project sitting beside it I need to finish off first.

As for the exhaust, at the moment it's looking like modified standard HSV manifolds, although that may change depending on what happens clearance wise when I raise the engine a bit to get the starter motor to clear the steering rack mount.

Edit: I think I PM'd BadBen, but yes, the LS1 was purely a cost reasoning, and they still make enough power.

With it completely stripped out how it is, it's an EXTREMELY light R33, putting more and more torque into it is just going to result in massive power skids. 5.7L will be plenty big enough with a full exhaust + cam + tune.

As for the exhaust, depending on how loud it ends up at full noise, 30 metres from the side of the track, will depend on whether I leave it as a straight through dual 2.5" or whether I have to put a muffler on each.