Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26- Enlarging Std Throttle Bodies

XRATED

By XRATED,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

s2d4 Rising Star

s2d4

Posted
Posted

Awesome questions and answers in this thread.

XRATED, If you don't mind me asking (since I have a habit of asking you things), Which plenum are you using?

I am also be very interested in your quest of the perfect seal with your set up as I would imagine the response should improve, as well as higher power/torque figures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Awesome questions and answers in this thread.

XRATED, If you don't mind me asking (since I have a habit of asking you things), Which plenum are you using?

I am also be very interested in your quest of the perfect seal with your set up as I would imagine the response should improve, as well as higher power/torque figures.

... ha ha ha no worries mate.

As posted previously, I have a two piece Greddy RB26 plenum.

There are a few 'secret' and not so secret tricks to get tb's to seal... most are well covered in the forum.

There should be some gains... well I hope so! But more top end is not my goal.

J.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted
EFI Hardware can do them 0398735400.

Cheers..

Depending on price ,I might give it a go for the fun of it..i cant see how it could hinder performance at all, seems like it would aid flow if anything even if only marginally more responsive. Measuring the stock TB front is 65mm rear is 60 so there is at least 5 mill to be had plus smoothing out the butterfly has got to let it flow better than original...Doesnt it?

I have seen it done once before on a honda ,and it definately didnt make it any worse...

Ill report back with my 50kw gains later... :)

PS

Man i did a search on this the other day and nothing came up so i started a thread...fuggin..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Cheers..

Depending on price ,I might give it a go for the fun of it..i cant see how it could hinder performance at all, seems like it would aid flow if anything even if only marginally more responsive. Measuring the stock TB front is 65mm rear is 60 so there is at least 5 mill to be had plus smoothing out the butterfly has got to let it flow better than original...Doesnt it?

I have seen it done once before on a honda ,and it definately didnt make it any worse...

Ill report back with my 50kw gains later... :)

PS

Man i did a search on this the other day and nothing came up so i started a thread...fuggin..

I did ALOT of reaserch and ALOT of calculations before I had a set of tb's modded.

If you dont have the propper head work and plenum volume mods... you will more than likely go backwards. Or best case not gain anything except a bill from EFI Hardware. Not to mention that you have to permanently modifly your injector/joining manifold and plenum runners to suit... so add another $300 for machine work and $500 for a new plenum, tb's and joining manifold when/if it dosen't work....

I recently had a conversation with a Jenvey rep... they seriously looked at producing an rb26 itb set up and manifold. They couldn't gain much anywhere in the power range OR in response/progression whith they're designs and throttle bodies.... They modelled everything on a simulation program- so nothing was actually built. The only gains they did get was with particular flow rates, with particular variables and a slight increase in tb diameter (49mm). For those who don't know who Jenvey are google it- they're one of the best multiple tb designers/manufactures in the world.

The money is better spent somwhere else... Like nitrous ah ah ah.

Cheers

Justin

Edited by XRATED
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

Posted
Posted
Getting a normal single throttle body is an expensive enough operation. I cant imagine what it would cost to have 6 throttles done at once. I think it might be easier to modify the base plate, weld and match port it to some aftermarket IDF/IDA/DRLA throttles. Injection Perfection does some really nice throttle with trumpets, which you could then build a custom plenum around. Ive seen then in 48, 50mm and larger. Extremely nice quality.

The other options are to have the throttle shafts profiled, or change to these fancy looking things.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/106680-shaftles...s-rb26dett.html

Thatsbloodsport clip is the funniest f**kin thing ive seen in ages..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Yeah,Rang those guys, its about 250+ for my single, so f**k that..too much for too little..at half the price i may of considered it..research is good in theory, but nothing beats trying it...And ive seen people do it with ok results, But not on skylines..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
... ha ha ha no worries mate.

As posted previously, I have a two piece Greddy RB26 plenum.

There are a few 'secret' and not so secret tricks to get tb's to seal... most are well covered in the forum.

There should be some gains... well I hope so! But more top end is not my goal.

J.

I think your being quite ambitious if the goal is not for more top end. I've also done alot of R&D on intake manifold design mostly on aspirated engines but I have tested varible runner length intake manifolds in turbo charged engines with good bottom end turbo responses found (upto 500rpm better spool rates). I've also been involved with the beautiful FR500 intake manifold on both 4.6L and stroke 5.4L modular V8's with various mods.

In alot of boosted applications I've never noticed any tangiable gains in upgrading to larger diameter throttle bodies. I can give you two scenerios that may surprise you:

1. HTV2300 boosted LS1 wih all the fruit - the client wanted a MAFLESS tune in order to get rid of the 78mm MAF and ultise the 90mm throttle body and intake. THe vehicle had previously made 410rwkw with the std MAF, in 4 hours of tuning I didn't see a sigle gain in horsepower at any rpm. It also didn't loose any power.

2. In some XR6T's once the exhuast and Intercooler have been upgraded along with fuel system the vehicles have a tendance to over boost due to the 32mm wastegate port. In these situations I reduce the throttle opening to control the boost. I can tell you that in some situations I have remduced throttle openings to 40% total opening without any loss in horsepower and this is up around the 360rwkw mark with the std(72mm??) throttle body.

I dont know your current setup but a change in runner length may warrant more gain in response and midrange power without a loss in topend power. Note that I'm not discrediting proper port matching as ruducing turbulance in the port can really help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
  • 4 years later...
Chris32R Proficient

Chris32R

Posted
Posted

Sorry to hear bud. Hopefully karma gets the assholes.

I'm looking at getting my set enlarged soon too. Is there anyone other than efi hardware able o get this done for cheaper? Over $800 with postage each way send a bit steep.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 7 months later...
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, eXquiSit said:

Tbh it would be cool if hypertune or plazmaman made larger billet throttles then also one of their plenums to suit the larger throttles

I would buy that!

 

IMG_1079.PNG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...