Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Gals, bought these turbos second hand however they appear to have different exhaust wheels than that of a mates R34, these have more fins on the exhaust, how can I tell if they are metal or upgraded wheels?

Here are some photos

post-64397-1266139090_thumb.jpg

post-64397-1266139116_thumb.jpg

i magnet comes to mind to test for metal...

Cheers mate, did not think of something as simple as a magnet, turns out that the exhaust wheel is definately ceramic as with the nut holding it together, what are your thoughts about fitting these out with metal wheels and 360 degree thrust bearing?

Can I then run a couple pounds boost above the 1 bar currently?

Hi there, can you elaborate, "a bugger if non ferrous metal" ?? cheers

non-ferrous metals are not magnetic.

They are just trying to correct me about my magnet comment :)

However, given we are talking turbos (without inconel and so on), the magnet is applicable as stated.

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

Hi there, thank you for taking the time and providing me a solution with another brand over Garrett, however without disregarding what I have learnt here can you advise me if there is any Garrett Turbo Charger as a direct replacement over standard which would provide minimal lag and alternative over HKS etc The question may be asked why........? the only answer being I want to keep the old girl fairly original (a change for me) as in original brand name parts to achieve a better result and achieve reliability. Turbo's to still be Garrett, what would the model number should I source, appreciate your help, cheers

Grey Ghost the 707160-9 is made by Garrett for HKS , all HKS do is get them from Garrett without the Garrett wastegate actuator and supply their own higher rated ones .

707160-9 , Garrett turbo for a Garrett price .

Why better than std units ? More modern wheels and a lower friction longer lasting bearing system .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...