Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Gals, bought these turbos second hand however they appear to have different exhaust wheels than that of a mates R34, these have more fins on the exhaust, how can I tell if they are metal or upgraded wheels?

Here are some photos

post-64397-1266139090_thumb.jpg

post-64397-1266139116_thumb.jpg

i magnet comes to mind to test for metal...

Cheers mate, did not think of something as simple as a magnet, turns out that the exhaust wheel is definately ceramic as with the nut holding it together, what are your thoughts about fitting these out with metal wheels and 360 degree thrust bearing?

Can I then run a couple pounds boost above the 1 bar currently?

Hi there, can you elaborate, "a bugger if non ferrous metal" ?? cheers

non-ferrous metals are not magnetic.

They are just trying to correct me about my magnet comment :)

However, given we are talking turbos (without inconel and so on), the magnet is applicable as stated.

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

A few thoughts based on what the RB26 people tell me .

I understand that the "steel" turbine generally used to flick the ceramic one is the GT28 62T 9 bladed one . Not as fragile as the std ones but nevertheless a slightly larger higher flow capable wheel .

The thing to remember when doing this is that with less resistance to exhaust flow the turbines response gets a little lazier and you don't have the lower oil shear drag advantages of annular contact ball bearings to compensate .

The simple truth is that ball bearing cartridges are more responsive with the same wheel combination but the wheels need to be sensibly sized too .

Durability wise ball bearings win hands down , hardened balls running on hardened races with small point contact areas .

Given a choice I would not put bush bearing turbos on an RB26 , if you damage them the sheer work involved in R&R makes them uneconomic in the long run .

These 707160-9 AKA GTSS turbos I reckon are the ones to use and its good knowing that someone at HKS spent time and money dialing in a specific turbo to be powerful and responsive in a specific car/engine application . They are not a Garrett generic maybe . Smart cookies developed this combination .

It's unfortunate Garrett doesn't appear to want to sell the cartridge used in the 707160-9 turbo because an economic upgrade may have been to have the std turbos housings machined to suit this BB cartridge .

Anyway it looks expensive initially but for a "sorted" turbo that you can buy at a Garrett price I think they are hard to beet , short of losing oil pressure or something foreign smashing the wheels these should live a long and healthy life .

Response cautious people like them and I don't think I've heard anyone say they didn't work better everywhere that the std turbos while being more responsive everywhere as well .

Extra functionality and durability - bargain I reckon .

Cheers A .

Hi there, thank you for taking the time and providing me a solution with another brand over Garrett, however without disregarding what I have learnt here can you advise me if there is any Garrett Turbo Charger as a direct replacement over standard which would provide minimal lag and alternative over HKS etc The question may be asked why........? the only answer being I want to keep the old girl fairly original (a change for me) as in original brand name parts to achieve a better result and achieve reliability. Turbo's to still be Garrett, what would the model number should I source, appreciate your help, cheers

Grey Ghost the 707160-9 is made by Garrett for HKS , all HKS do is get them from Garrett without the Garrett wastegate actuator and supply their own higher rated ones .

707160-9 , Garrett turbo for a Garrett price .

Why better than std units ? More modern wheels and a lower friction longer lasting bearing system .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...