Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I have 1991 r32 gts25 4 door skyline with a rb20det in it around 170 kw atw

I want do swap a enigne to a rb26dett and also make the driveline Rwd (rear wheel drive)

What would be the best way and how could you do it ?

I have a halfcut gtr r32 in mind with a g4 link ecu and for the drive line a rb25det gearbox and drive shalf also diff

Is there anything else i would need to do ? I know theres something with the sump but I need some help

So anyone who has done this before with making a RWD rb26dett please help or if know anything that could help me

I am trying to come up with track drifting car that ISN'T rb25det ( too much of the rb25det drifter )

So anything else that could help a rwd rb26dett drift r32 skyline please tell :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308378-project-r32-4-door-rb26dett-rwd/
Share on other sites

yep 25/30 is a good option, but even if you want to keep it twin turbo do a 26/30, these see big numbers built and balanced right.im just looking into this atm as im thinking of buying a laurel shell and either engine choice will be the way to go. its all about the coin in the end and how long you dont want the car off the road?

  • 4 weeks later...
Well I have 1991 r32 gts25 4 door skyline with a rb20det in it around 170 kw atw

I want do swap a enigne to a rb26dett and also make the driveline Rwd (rear wheel drive)

What would be the best way and how could you do it ?

I have a halfcut gtr r32 in mind with a g4 link ecu and for the drive line a rb25det gearbox and drive shalf also diff

Is there anything else i would need to do ? I know theres something with the sump but I need some help

So anyone who has done this before with making a RWD rb26dett please help or if know anything that could help me

I am trying to come up with track drifting car that ISN'T rb25det ( too much of the rb25det drifter )

So anything else that could help a rwd rb26dett drift r32 skyline please tell :cool:

done the same with a gts4 engine piece of cake

take the front cvs off and shafts out simple split pin punch and knock the pins out pull of the cvs

take the top cover off the front diff on the exhaust side of the engine free the front diff centre by grinding away one side or a couple notchs

proceed to grind the sump flush removing the housing the front diff sits in jump on the other side start grinding the bits that stick out which is the cv mount on the intake side this side needs to be grinded pretty close to the side of the sump as it needs to clear the steering knuckle at the bottom of the steering rack you will notice if you have not grinded enough as the sump will sit on the steering rack knuckle pull engine again and grind some more

all up took me about 45mins of grinding and algud bonus is you wont need to move the oil pickup and install a rwd sump

giving you 5.0litres of oil in the sump instead of 4.6 makes a big difference and the alloy sump is finned unlike the rwd crappy steel one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...