And Let The Issues Begin!

[rb26stagea]

So... Having just spent (another) fortune on the Stag in the last few months (full interior, sound system, radiator, oil and trans coolers etc), The car was pretty much finished, with the exception of my new wheels (getting repaired and repainted), and the roof rail replacement kit (should arrive this week), so all was rosy: birds were singing, the sun was shining, etc etc...

I had some concerns about the rear diff: last time I was getting work done, my mechanic mentioned that it showed signs of binding: it took 3 strong guys to push it out of the workshop, and in hindsight, it's been feeling a bit odd in the handling department: just not quite as sharp as I remember, but I put it down to the extra weight of the leather interior and audio system...

On saturday just gone, I pulled out of GreenGhost's (Myles) driveway, and the car stalled. The wouldn't start again: it turned over happily (the battery is a 2 month old 750cca unit), the FC hand controller was working correctly, the immobiliser was disengaging correctly, but the fuel pump wasn't priming. "Easy," we thought, "the fuel pump's died" Easy fix.

Not so: at this stage (and it's early days yet), it would appear that the Power FC has died: It's not starting the fuel pump, and there is absolutely no sign of injector pulse. The real buggr is that I just spent a heap of effort (and cash) moulding the hand controller behind the manual shifter: it looks trick, and saved me substantial money on extra guages...

So before I end my whinge, it looks like I'll be up for a new ecu (Thinking I'll go the Haltech this time around).

On the diff side, I scored, and managed to find a pair of suitable closer ratio diffs( 4.33 as opposed to the current 4.1 I have) for CHEAP, so they're on their merry way to me at the moment: the current diffs are too tall: it hits an indicated 185km/h in 3rd gear, so I was considering either a closer gearset for the transmisson, or closer diffs anyway...

There. I've vented. I'll keep the updates coming as I find out more (assuming anyone is interested)...

[stagman]

So um if your sick of your car...I'll take it off your hands? haha

Sounds great what your doing to the car, bummer about the PFC though. Your car would have to be one of the more heavily modifed in the OZ stag scene by now wouldnt it?

[scotty nm35]

Sounds like the same issue R33ownerrr is having.

www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Power-Fc-t308067.html

Could it just be a blown ic on the board, common problem? Anyone fix them in Aus?

[M I K E]

ditto that. without being able to see it (and going from what you've described) it sounds like a problem with the pfc board. if it is, and yours can't be repaired, why not buy another one (minus hand controller) as they are relatively inexpensive compared to buying a new management system and having to get that tuned. you already have the tune to swap on to the new pfc if you go that path

[KiwiRS4T]

Plug in Link (Vipec) for R34GTT is NZ$1800. Did you install your PFC? Did you have to change the order of some of the injectors and if so did you do it inside the PFC or change the wires around in the loom? I am getting a Link and the options (for an S1) are to change the injector signals or put in an R33 s2 loom and get a GTST Link...but I would rather stick with the existing loom and plug.

[CruisingFast]

Looking forward to seeing your new setup when it's all done. You should definitely look into seeing if anyone can repair the ecu.

I've been having some issues with some recent mods myself, I got a bunch of HKS gear, adjustable cam gears for the intake and exhaust, oil cooler, catch can and the racing induction kit. They couldn't get enough fuel into the car, was leaning out with the standard fuel system so I've since purchased HKS fuel rail with HKS 600cc injectors and bosch fuel pump with HKS fuel pressure regulator.

I also followed your advice on the redline and am getting some lightweight for the gearbox and diff, if you know the quantity I need approximately can you pm me please.

Looking forward to the next cruise!

Edited February 16, 2010 by CruisingFast

[rb26stagea]

Kiwirs4t: No, it was all professionally done when the conversion was done by my old man, years ago: I have since had it retuned to 420hp@4wheels.

Stagman: I would hope so: it is the most comprehensively modified I've seen in Aus, but by no means the most powerful (yet!).

Mike and Scotty: there is nobody I have heard of who repairs them over here, and the jap repair option is both expensive and time consuming (minimum 3 months from what I have heard), and I have never been 100% happy with the PFC anyway, so I'll go the Haltech option assuming the current ecu is FUBAR.

Cruisingfast: Bring it on! lol! I'll give you a call tomorrow and let you know...

[scotty nm35]

Most probably its just an IC that is blown. Do you know if the board is potted? (covered in epoxy)

I may be able to repair it, I used to repair circuit boards to component level. Its worth a look inside before you bin it anyway.

Got anyone up there thats switched on with electronics?

Edited February 16, 2010 by scotty nm35

[lilcrash]

I would be willing to look over it before you bin it. I'm in Ipswich. If I can't fix it the guy I work with I'm 90% certain he can. Let me know

[rb26stagea]

Cheers fellas! I am still waiting on the full diagnosis, but as soon as I have definite info, I'll let you know Diffs should arrive today or tomorrow: excitement!!

[_Ryan_]

Double post, Forums are fail tonight.

[_Ryan_]

I have heard of them being fixed, just trying to remember who it was. End of the day, electronics/circuit boards are circuit boards. Doesn't matter if its an Autronic or PFC. Cheapest option is new PFC and copy your tune over, and that keeps the hand controller where it is.

[DaveB]

...

On the diff side, I scored, and managed to find a pair of suitable closer ratio diffs( 4.33 as opposed to the current 4.1 I have) for CHEAP, so they're on their merry way to me at the moment: the current diffs are too tall: it hits an indicated 185km/h in 3rd gear, so I was considering either a closer gearset for the transmisson, or closer diffs anyway...

...

Sorry just for my own understanding... you say your current diff's are 4.1? and the new ones are 4.3?

So isn't that

4.1 = 4.1:1

4.3 = 4.3:1

I make 4.3:1 "taller" than 4.1:1 (it's a higher ratio)... so won't you be doing less than 185km/h in 3rd with the new 4.3:1 diff? (like ~176km/h or something?)

...hmm reading it again, maybe you meant your diff's are too short, and you want that you should be doing more than 185km/h in 3rd... yeah, that's probably it

[Big Fella]

Sorry just for my own understanding... you say your current diff's are 4.1? and the new ones are 4.3?

So isn't that

4.1 = 4.1:1

4.3 = 4.3:1

I make 4.3:1 "taller" than 4.1:1 (it's a higher ratio)... so won't you be doing less than 185km/h in 3rd with the new 4.3:1 diff? (like ~176km/h or something?)

...hmm reading it again, maybe you meant your diff's are too short, and you want that you should be doing more than 185km/h in 3rd... yeah, that's probably it

4.3:1 means 4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 rotation of the tailshaft meaning quicker acceleration and less top end.

For some reason it has always referred to as a shorter ratio - i"m a mechanic and some of the guys here at work still get it confused -

[DaveB]

4.3:1 means 4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 rotation of the tailshaft meaning quicker acceleration and less top end.

For some reason it has always referred to as a shorter ratio - i"m a mechanic and some of the guys here at work still get it confused -

eh? now I'm really confused...

4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 turn of the tailshaft (I think this is backwards but I'll go with it) is MORE turns (slightly) than 4.1 turns of the tyre which is the current situation... which would mean LESS acceleration...

I think this is backwards /\ though, because if it were 4.1 turns of the tyre to 1 turn of the prop. shaft, and with 4th/overdrive gears being as they are close to 1:1 (sometimes less), that would mean that at 2,000 rpm in overdrive the tyres would be spinning at 8,200rpm which (for a 17" wheel with 245/45 tyre, approximately) is something like 16,400 metres in a minute (circumference of about 2 metres according to http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_size_calculators.html) which is a crazy 984000 metres in an hour... or 984 km/h ?? Am I going nuts or something lol ?

Whereas if the final drive ratio were to work as I suspect it does (4.1 turns prop. shaft = 1 turn axel) 2,000 rpm in overdrive would come out at about 58km/h... which I think sounds more reasonable?

Edited February 17, 2010 by DaveB

[KiwiRS4T]

Yep final drive ratio is number of turns of the propshaft to turns of the axle. A tall ratio is a smaller number and a higher gear. I myself am looking for a taller ratio (higher gear) so that I can exceed 320km/hr [just kidding - I want a taller ratio so that I will have less revs when cruising at the effective legal limit of 110km/hr as I expect the extra torque of the RB30 will mean i don't lose out on acceleration].

I have a 3.54 to 1 front diff out of an R34 GTR (which actually is not much lighter than a Stagea) and I am looking for a matching rear diff (may have to import one from Japan as i have had no luck so far).

[M I K E]

lol yes, he has it backwards. it's turns of the tailshaft:rotation of wheel

[66yostagea]

Also smaller circumference tyres = faster acceleration less top speed. Larger circumference = slower acceleration but higher top speed, and less revs at legal speed limits, less boost etc.

[rb26stagea]

the hiher the ratio, the quicker the acceleration, but the less the top speed: I want MORE acelleration, at the expense of top speed.

Just spoke to my mechanic: looks like the fuel pump relay is cactus: when the pump is powered up independently of everything else, then the Power FC seems to allow the injectors to work. Does this sound right??

If this is the case, then I'll be up for a new relay for the fuel pump, and everything should run again ok, whick means that the money I just budgeted for a new ecu can now be spent on a GReddy intake kit and Z32 airflow meters: hopefully resulting in better spool-up, and some actual turbo noise!

I'll keep you guys updated....

[scotty nm35]

Is the relay being energized by the ecu? If not you could just run a separate power feed. Good to hear its only the pump, easy fix.