Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Everyone's different. I love the 33's shape the most out of all the Skylines. Yes even the R35. It goes for me 33 > 32 > 35 > 34 ... the rear of the 34 is just an ugly sight. And unless it's a GTR the front isn't all that appealing either.

But hey, I also like Dr. Pepper... and noone seems to like that either. But at the end of the day, I look at my car, I pay for my car, I drive it, so I'll get what I want.

I gotta admit though without decent coilovers it's a bit of a boat lol... mines currently like 10cm off the ground from the exhaust and if I'm flying around a corner the front bar will scrape sometimes.

I needs me some coilovers. :cool:

If I was your mate I'd just get an R33 and do some basic bolt ons.

TBQH Parking my r33 is quite comparable with parking my sisters corolla and a far better turning circle than my mums camry, ie: it has a nice tight turning circle. There is no way an r32 has a turning circle of 5.2m, shit a smart car has a turning circle of 8.7metres. 5.2m is comparable with japanese kei cars and a skyline is not and has never been a kei car.

Non GT-Rs

32's are getting old and finding a good one that hasn't been molested isn't easy.

33's...get a silver 33gtst...you'll blend in with the other boat owners.

34...That would be the go

GT-R

32...see above plus maintenance costs, if youve got the coin go for it.

33...still a boat lol

34...Still a lot of money

*cough, cough*

  • 3 months later...

Personally I would love a GTR. Imho 32 has the best looking chassis although you will have to sacrifice interior comforts. If you want a car that is cheap to maintain, has a lot of aftermarket parts available and you don't see on the road often, I would recommend a 32 gtst.

Edited by TonyStarks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's impossible to convey what it will feel like to get the right torque. But you can develop a feel for it. A 900mm breaker bar is.....f**king huge. I only use a normal ~400mm one. But with 900mm being very nearly a metre, and the right torque being in the order of 100Nm, then you're going to need a bit over 100N of force, which is about 10 kg. So if you practice using the bar pulling up, instead of pushing down, then it will be about the same effort as lifting a 10kg bucket of water. That's what the pressure against your fingers should feel like. Ish. If you use a more typical length breaker, then it's about twice that. So a good 20 litre bucket, or a little bit more.
    • Also, if anyone has a torque wrench around Williams Landing area and can lend it to me for like 5 mins - I got 4 bottles of Furphy left and I’ll throw that in with a Happy meal 😂
    • So today I decided to bleed my brake fluid, which meant to the wheels came off the car at my garage for the first time. I only had a 90cm breaker bar with me and I noticed that some 1 or 2 lug nuts were a bit hard to get loose (from when the shop did the coilovers) Now.... when it came to putting them back on, I didn't want to put all my weight and overtighten them. So I hand tightened as much as possible and then put normal pressure on the edge of the breaker bar and tightened it until I couldn't turn it anymore without putting in an effort. Do you think that is tight enough? Or is that still too tight?  They are tighter than finger tight. Last thing I want is to have them strip or warp sh*t. But hard times mean I can't just go down to Supercheap and get a torque wrench 🥺
    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
    • I don't think that's what you're seeing. Something else doing that. The only time I've seen it get so retarded is when it's trying to control idle (in which case we're not talking about mapped timing tagets anyway) and when there is an extreme coolant temperature sensor fault. The RB26 ECU is essentially the same as the 20 ECU and I knew that ging inside out. There is no facility for it to retard that heavily on cold start. The OEMs never used to do it back then. I mean, shit, the catalyst is abotu 3 miles down the exhaust anyway. Early light-off was just a twinkle in some EPA arsehole's eye back then, not a regular engine control strategy.
×
×
  • Create New...