Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its more the sudden impact that will destroy your gearbox, take it easy when changing gears! what clutch have you got? a Nismo coppermix will help if you have the bucks. It cost me over 10g for a ppg so think about it.

whenever i change gears i always allow time for the synchro to catch up never slam it through gears. theres been nuthin fast enough to warrant slamming the gears. even a 570hp maloo ute he had about 20 car lengths on me wen we both punched it and by the end of third i had about 10 car length on him... he went home with his tail between his legs complaining i threw rocks at him.... I said "well next time stay infront" lol

Its more the sudden impact that will destroy your gearbox, take it easy when changing gears! what clutch have you got? a Nismo coppermix will help if you have the bucks. It cost me over 10g for a ppg so think about it.

True, and think about what would happen if the shock loading broke the oil film - no more gear against gear sliding and the forces of the now gripping gears would rip the teeth off, as the force would be radial instead of tangential (just my guess).

With over 86,000 thousand threads on the good oils and many different opinions there's not much talk on build tolerances or how hard they push their cars, most of todays oils are very advanced.

I was running over 350kws at all 4s with a standard gearbox with 10 year old oil trouble free, I added a triple plate clutch (higher impact) with fresh Motul oil, flicked the Motec switch down to 270kws and with the 1st caining Bang! gearbox no more, Redline will tell you they have the best oils in the world along with all other brands, Test... add MT-90 to finger then hit with hammer, outch! some tune shops race GTRs with standard gearboxes with twin plate organic clutches.

You really need to spend the Dollars on the full package to have any real luck or modify your driving style.

Agreed, the original point was mainly about wear and film strength, which is very much oil dependent. Getting as much backlash out of the system through tight build tolerances is also crucial. Out of interest - was the triple plate solid or spring center? Solid centers must be be murder on drivelines.

ive got a sprung centred hks gd max twin plate never broken a box just worn shit out. the hks twin is now slipping so giving it to jim berry most likely to do a carbotic rebuild and up the clamping load. will see how it goes they claim tho heavy clutch's are murder on synchro because of the mass that is spining takes longer to slow down mainly os giken clutches i was told unsure why but yeh.

Agreed, the original point was mainly about wear and film strength, which is very much oil dependent. Getting as much backlash out of the system through tight build tolerances is also crucial. Out of interest - was the triple plate solid or spring center? Solid centers must be be murder on drivelines.

Exedy Hyper metal series spring center, a good clutch with no slip at all, was just too tuff for the old girl but no probs for the ppg.

any one got any info bout the ppg helical gear sets?

also with the OS gear sets u need to purchase sum parts from the series 3 GTR boxes right? so whats the cost of those parts?

wen i enquired bout the series 3 bit they told me $590. unsure if they use the revised synchro's for the ppg set.

i have had no experience with PAR gearsets...

but when i spoke to them not to long ago with what they could do for me they mentioned something about 12month warranty if they assembled and installed the gearbox.

So thats something to think about

i have had no experience with PAR gearsets...

but when i spoke to them not to long ago with what they could do for me they mentioned something about 12month warranty if they assembled and installed the gearbox.

So thats something to think about

yes but people that i rang around and spoke to about them said that par and warranty are words that shouldnt be mentioned together. but ive never seen evidence yet of a par gearset in a skyline failing they have there own 9.8sec drag car not aussie built but still if it work it works. im very keen to try a set and punish it to see if it breaks or last quite a while plus they offer cooler sets then ppg like a straight cut synchro set... i think thats pretty mad lol

  • 1 month later...

Yes i snapped my box last week, and im thinking of getting a PAR, The owner of Hills motorsports said to me his installed around 150 in the past and his has only heard of one snapping 2nd gear and the car was doing 850HP, So i think i might take my chances. If you talk to another gearbox company most of them will bag out the competetors anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Actually I drive my own cars very hard, much harder than other people's cars, even rentals I treat with respect.
    • It didn't save me any money! All it did was leave me with 3x 5L Engine oil bottles that have about 1-1.5L left in them 🤣
    • Have you tried one of those wash mitts @PranK? I find it works so much better than brushes on a stick for cleaning wheels. If fingers fit between the spokes, then can easily clean them with a mitt. I like Bowden's Own and use their Love Glove, as gay as it sounds. https://www.bowdensown.com.au/products/microfiber-range/love-glove That applicator looks super handy! Earmarked for next time I'm splurging on cleaning supplies.
    • A car always goes harder if it isn't yours ( e.g. rental, mum n dads, your mates daily when your deso)
    • Hey, guys, I’m hoping I can find answer here. I have already done some searching and asking around but still nothing.    I fitted an IC7 dash in my R32 GTR, and I got everything displaying on the dash except my high beams. I get input voltage and the high beams displaying in the dash when I pull the lever, but not when I fully engage the high beams. I spliced into the Red/Blue Beam+ wire in the black center connector from the cluster, but there is also a black Beam wire I think I need to use as well. The high beams still work. It’s just a matter of getting it to display on the dash.    Has anyone fully wired in their IC7 properly ? I would appreciate any guidance on this.    IMG_8835.mov    
×
×
  • Create New...