Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-access the CONSULT port, bottom right side of dash behind flip down door.

-ignition OFF

-ground bottom middle terminal using a wire.

-ignition ON

-observe flashes (also beeps) of ABS light

-it will start with '12', (1 long flash then 2 short.)

-it will then flash the fault codes.

-to clear the codes, whilst in this diagnostic mode, disconnect the grounded terminal, then ground it 3 or more times, for at least 2 sec, within 12.5 sec. restart diagnostic mode to check if thwey have been cleared. May take a few attempts before the codes clear.

21 Front right wheel sensor (open circuit)

22 Front right wheel sensor (short - circuit)

25 Front left wheel sensor (open circuit)

26 Front left wheel sensor (short circuit)

31 Rear right wheel sensor (short circuit)

32 Rear left wheel sensor (short circuit)

35 Rear left whel sensor (open circuit)

36 Rear left whell sensor (short circuit)

41 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit

42 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit

45 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit

46 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit

55 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

56 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

57 Battery voltage

61 ABS actuator motor and motor relay circuit

63 ABS acutuator relay circuit

64 FR & RR G sensor 1

65 FR & RR G sensor 2

66 FR & RR sensor 1 or 2

68 G sensor voltage

69 Side G sensor voltage

71 ATTESA E_TS PRO/ABS control unit and circuit

72 Throttle position sensor

73,74 E-TS/LSD actuator motor

76,77 Pressure switch

78 Air bleed switch

79 Oil level switch

91,92,93 E-TS solenoid

94,95,96 E-TS fail safe solenoid

97,98,99 LSD solenoid

Hey Mat, welcome to SAU, and to the Stagea section of the forums.

First things first, do a quick search for your problem in this section of the forums, and you should be at least be able to find a link with info for getting ECU codes. Once you do that, see if anything matches what's previously posted. If you can't find any details about what corresponds to the codes given, post the details on here and see if anyone else can help!

yeah ive searched the forums and everything ive tried hasnt worked.

ive tried the consult port and it doesnt stop flashing i counted 102 before i gave up.

i wouldnt think a slight tire differnce would affect the system.

there is a differnce by 2.06% but wouldnt think that would be enough to affect the system??

or am i wrong?

yeah ive searched the forums and everything ive tried hasnt worked.

ive tried the consult port and it doesnt stop flashing i counted 102 before i gave up.

i wouldnt think a slight tire differnce would affect the system.

there is a differnce by 2.06% but wouldnt think that would be enough to affect the system??

or am i wrong?

From the million times this has come up on this forum, I'd say stick to the same size rims/tyres for all 4 and you wont have any problems. The ATTESA system apparently doesn't like differing rolling diameter front vs rear OR differing tyre width...it allows enough leeway for uneven tyre wear, but thats about it.

yeah ive searched the forums and everything ive tried hasnt worked.

ive tried the consult port and it doesnt stop flashing i counted 102 before i gave up.

i wouldnt think a slight tire differnce would affect the system.

there is a differnce by 2.06% but wouldnt think that would be enough to affect the system??

or am i wrong?

flat(er) tyres also cause the jerkyness and even bald vs new tyres

see if you can throw on some rims from a different car which are all identical

  • 1 month later...

yeah i thought the same thing. ive tried the consult port and i even have a cable but i dont get any fault codes,

the fault clears as soon as i turn the car off, and the light wont come back on untill i drive about 20-30km's

ive noticed a small amount of fluid araound the bottle in the boot so ill drain it and check all the lines and replace the fluid.

  • 4 weeks later...

before you do anything make sure the fluid level in the ATTESA reservoir is between full and empty, and that you don't have any leaks so that the system can pressurise.

  • 6 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...