Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-access the CONSULT port, bottom right side of dash behind flip down door.

-ignition OFF

-ground bottom middle terminal using a wire.

-ignition ON

-observe flashes (also beeps) of ABS light

-it will start with '12', (1 long flash then 2 short.)

-it will then flash the fault codes.

-to clear the codes, whilst in this diagnostic mode, disconnect the grounded terminal, then ground it 3 or more times, for at least 2 sec, within 12.5 sec. restart diagnostic mode to check if thwey have been cleared. May take a few attempts before the codes clear.

21 Front right wheel sensor (open circuit)

22 Front right wheel sensor (short - circuit)

25 Front left wheel sensor (open circuit)

26 Front left wheel sensor (short circuit)

31 Rear right wheel sensor (short circuit)

32 Rear left wheel sensor (short circuit)

35 Rear left whel sensor (open circuit)

36 Rear left whell sensor (short circuit)

41 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit

42 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit

45 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit

46 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit

55 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

56 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

57 Battery voltage

61 ABS actuator motor and motor relay circuit

63 ABS acutuator relay circuit

64 FR & RR G sensor 1

65 FR & RR G sensor 2

66 FR & RR sensor 1 or 2

68 G sensor voltage

69 Side G sensor voltage

71 ATTESA E_TS PRO/ABS control unit and circuit

72 Throttle position sensor

73,74 E-TS/LSD actuator motor

76,77 Pressure switch

78 Air bleed switch

79 Oil level switch

91,92,93 E-TS solenoid

94,95,96 E-TS fail safe solenoid

97,98,99 LSD solenoid

Hey Mat, welcome to SAU, and to the Stagea section of the forums.

First things first, do a quick search for your problem in this section of the forums, and you should be at least be able to find a link with info for getting ECU codes. Once you do that, see if anything matches what's previously posted. If you can't find any details about what corresponds to the codes given, post the details on here and see if anyone else can help!

yeah ive searched the forums and everything ive tried hasnt worked.

ive tried the consult port and it doesnt stop flashing i counted 102 before i gave up.

i wouldnt think a slight tire differnce would affect the system.

there is a differnce by 2.06% but wouldnt think that would be enough to affect the system??

or am i wrong?

yeah ive searched the forums and everything ive tried hasnt worked.

ive tried the consult port and it doesnt stop flashing i counted 102 before i gave up.

i wouldnt think a slight tire differnce would affect the system.

there is a differnce by 2.06% but wouldnt think that would be enough to affect the system??

or am i wrong?

From the million times this has come up on this forum, I'd say stick to the same size rims/tyres for all 4 and you wont have any problems. The ATTESA system apparently doesn't like differing rolling diameter front vs rear OR differing tyre width...it allows enough leeway for uneven tyre wear, but thats about it.

yeah ive searched the forums and everything ive tried hasnt worked.

ive tried the consult port and it doesnt stop flashing i counted 102 before i gave up.

i wouldnt think a slight tire differnce would affect the system.

there is a differnce by 2.06% but wouldnt think that would be enough to affect the system??

or am i wrong?

flat(er) tyres also cause the jerkyness and even bald vs new tyres

see if you can throw on some rims from a different car which are all identical

  • 1 month later...

yeah i thought the same thing. ive tried the consult port and i even have a cable but i dont get any fault codes,

the fault clears as soon as i turn the car off, and the light wont come back on untill i drive about 20-30km's

ive noticed a small amount of fluid araound the bottle in the boot so ill drain it and check all the lines and replace the fluid.

  • 4 weeks later...

before you do anything make sure the fluid level in the ATTESA reservoir is between full and empty, and that you don't have any leaks so that the system can pressurise.

  • 6 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...