Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Are we talking about what i have or whats on ebay... so whos going to tell me what iv got???

I'm not planning on building the engine around turbos as i said earlie. Sell them off and start on a new stroker.

well from what you are saying and the ID tag and the 10 blade turbine it seems like they are 2835s. but considering how awful they are even in external gate form they are going to be even worse in restrictive tiny, low mount internal gate housings. they will be laggy as hell and with the smaller housings you will be loosing top end potential too (compared to the ext gate high mount versions).

the T04Z idea is a bad one too. they are old tech, rubbish turbo. they are just not a well matched combo on a RB26.

the GOOD options are:

twin 2530s or -5s for street/track/drag

twin GTSS -7s/R34 N1s for street/track

or if you want single look at some of the borgwarner offerings, or some new tech garret stuff. there are much better singles than a T04Z.

I don't see the problem in building an engine around a set of turbos. Actually it's a fairly good philosophical perspective for an engine build.

Atmospheric engines are built around the physics (pressure, flow behaviour, density) of our existing atmosphere.

They look to be 2835's. 10blade turbine wheel at 56mm, say 2835 on the housing, measured as 71mm compressor (56 trim) on the housing. Probably sitting in small T3 housing blended into a T28 footprint - just like 2835's.

I give up.. I'm gonna take the all your advice that they aren't what they seem ill put them on my engine. With stock manifolds and stock cams. And if they are 2560 or what every the fark you think they might be i should see reasonable response with decent power... if not not my rep that's gonna take a hit ill be sayig your the ones who gave me the info. ''Skyline guru's'' I'm also going to discard the info 2 turbo places have given me about them. Cause i have had enough of this i told yo so shit.

Your right, me and all my info gathering is wrong... HAPPY NOW. Oh I'm sorry for disagreeing with the ''skyline guru's''

Only other thing to check to completely confirm is the turbine exducer diameter (tip diameter). Typically 84 trim so 52mm (51.8mm).

And hell why not confirm the inducer diameter of the compressor wheel? Should be 53mm for 56trim.

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=709

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...