Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've got a R32 GTST with an RB20DET in it.

The head gasket appears to be on its way out so I am looking at a rebuild seen as I have to dig down that far into the engine.

I have the following parts bought for this round of work-

Conceptua head gasket kit- inlet, manifold, rocker covers, head gaskets

Conceptua head to manifold gasket

Conceptua manifold to turbo gasket

Conceptua turbo to turbo elbow gasket

Conceptua decat gaskets

Conceptua manifold studs

Conceptua Fuel filter

Conceptua Oil filter

Exedy organic clutch

A new oil pump

Japspeed Oil cooler and filter relocation kit

HKS oil temp gauge

HKS coolant temp gauge

Do-luck steel braided brake lines

I'll be ordering a fmic from japspeed tomorrow.

I've been talking to a mechanic already about carrying out this work and he has said he will arrange for new shells, bearings etc in the bottom and a clean and hone from a local engineering shop.

I'm looking for peoples thoughts on this rebuild please-

What other parts should I buy?

What other work should I have done while the engine is out?

What parts should I upgrade now instead of later on?

You get the picture- if you have been there already or have useful knowledge I'd really appreciate you sharing it.

ps.

The car has the following work down so far-

Japspeed alloy radiator

Japspeed engine torque damper

Japspeed rear strut brace

Japspeed turbo elbow

Japspeed down pipe

Japspeed decat

Tannabe cat back system

Conceptua BYCAS system

K&N air filter

255lph fuel pump

Apexi RSM (wired in)

Apexi AVCR (wired in but not set up)

Apexi SAFC (just sitting there)

R33 GTR Brembo calipers and discs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308996-rb20det-engine-rebuild-question/
Share on other sites

Turbo is standard and running at 0.8 bar.

I am really only at stage one tuning for the moment and probably running about 230bhp and 210 torque.

I know the motor can stay in for the head gasket replacement but the mechanic I am going to use reckons it would cost the same in labour charges for him to leave it in and work on or take it out and work on.

If he takes it out it will make life a lot easier for him.

While it is out he is planning on sending it off for a clean and hone, then some new shells, bearings etc. ???

I've never been into that part of the engine myself so its kinda over my head.

^ I couldn't agree more.

cruising_r32 - I'm really failing to see how it can be "about the same" price.

You have to take the head off regardless. Motor in or out. Motor out just adds on another day or two's work pulling it all out.

All the work you've listed can EASILY be done with the head off.

The stud's etc etc all bolt into the head, not the block, so it'll be a piece of piss doing it on a bench

The old RB20 will hold ~250rwkw (~340rwhp) without ANY worry in the world. I would just rip the head off. Do your studs/gaskets and so on, put it back on.

Whist it's off have a good look, but i would highly doubt anything major would be wrong at all requiring any work.

If you don't plan on doing anything more than the above power, then there is little realistic reason i see, to rebuild/alter anything at all.

Cheers for the info.

When you say studs, do you mean the head bolts- like the ones ARP make?

I've got the exhaust manifold bolts already bought.

Once it is all put back together including the new front mount inter cooler I will be happy enough with the power for now. It is my budget that is stopping me from going any further at the moment as I have a second R32 I am trying to get track ready.

BUT in the near future I hope to go for more power, nothing stupid, just another hundred or so horses.

So, if I am planning on pushing more power in the next year or so-

What work should I be thinking about?

Sorry for the vague questions but I know you guys have pushed your RB20's way further than most people up on this side of the planet so I'm curious to see what way you think I should proceed.

Any help or suggestion would be appreciated.

Alan.

No i meant your exhaust manifold studs (ones you have already).

If you plan on more power, only 100HP - basically... nothing.

The factory RB20 in good condition will make those power levels day in, day out, as long as you service it regularly and don't thrash it all the time (sitting on limiter, 5min burnouts etc etc).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...