Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

got a rb25det. about to reove my standard turbo and put a 3071r on.

just a couple of questions,

i have an oil line made up for the oil feed for the turbo. it does't have a restrictor in it. is this alrite?

i was told that 3071r's have in built in oil restrictors. . what about the size of the oil feed line?

as for the water lines, i was thinking of cutting the standard water lines and barbing the ends of them. and running braided hoses clamped to the original lines for the turbo. are the inside diameters of the standard water lines good enough for cooling a 3071r/

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309112-garrett-3071r-oil-and-water-lines/
Share on other sites

You have 7/16 UNF for oil feed, which your stock is M12x1.25

Water fittings are M14x1.5 which your stock water fittings are in M18x1.5

Oil drain bolt pattern is in T28 (1.5inch) your stock is in 2 inches

New oil drain adaptor is mast. withes threads you can either tab all the thread sizes to suit your stock lines or get new lines made. We normally drill and tab them into stock thread.

that ebay kit seems to be the go.anyone tried them? crap quality?

do yo need a restrictor in the oil feed? the current lines that i have for the turbo ( damaged) seem to be the same inside diameter as standard. they don't have an oil restrictor

are the stock water lines the right size aswell ( inside diameter). . cause i might cut my standard water feed, and hose clamp the braided turbo lines that i already have to the cut water feed.

tapping it wouldn;t be to bad

tao do you do any oil and water line kits?

cheers

Most of the ebay lines has rubber in it. For water they are ok. For oil You need the teflon braided line. We normally machine our bearing housings to suit stock water lines, so I can only supply the oil feeding line for $80.

You can get your water lines made up at local Enzed or Pirtek stores for about $150. Or just drill and tab new thread. Cost lot less.

You don't need restrictor for the BB unit. They already got 20 thou restrictor on their oil feeding pin.

check the ebay feedback, it seems to be good, noone with fitment issues for the GT3076 RB25 kits and a few sold.

message the seller and ask about materials used, highly doubt it is cheaply made. alot of items that seller has are OEM.

Hint , many SR20 OE water cooled turbos use the same size banjos and bolts as the Garrett BB turbos in the GT2554R to GT3582R range .

Sometimes import wreckers will sell them to you for not a lot of money .

All you really need the steel water lines for is to get far enough away from the turbos heat for rubber hose to survive reliably . High pressure (EFI) fuel hose makes good rubber water line material .

The Nissan banjos/bolts are compact and look factory because they are . Just make sure the water supply line runs uphill to the turbo and the outlet one uphill to wherever it connects to the system .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...