Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just wondering what the general opinion of using bolt-on spacers on a track only car are?

Has anyone had any issues with them, are they ok with the extra load put on them going around a circuit? etc, etc...

Thanks

(did a quick search, couldn't see anything :) )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309172-bolt-on-spacers-for-track-use/
Share on other sites

Just make sure you use hub centric spacers and you shouldn't have any drama's :cheers:

x2.

It's generally slip-on spacers that are responsible for the bad reputation.

Look at the hub you're fitting it to - if it has a centre carrier, it's there because the studs can't take all of the load. If your bolt-ons are any good (and designed for your car) they'll use the existing centre carrier to distribute the load, thus saving the studs.

  • 7 months later...

forgot about this thread :)

I've done a couple of track days now with bolt on hub spacers, although their not hub centering, they seem ok.

in the not too distant future i'd like to get a set of slicks. I was thinking of upgrading to hub centering ones, but im not sure how much more load would be made with R comps, would they be ok or should i stop being cheap ass and find a proper set of rims?

Edit- ive seen the rx7 vid before. i think maybe he forgot to tighten his nuts.

Nothing beats a proper set of rims in an aggressive offset to give you the track you want.

You can find reasonable brands in good sizes for $1000 or less.

I bought my set of Buddy Club P1 rims 17 x 9 in +17 offset for $600 off ebay.

I'm going to start using bolt-ons on my 32.

I've purchased a few different sets of JJR hudcentric ones, and am confident they're fine.

I know guys that use these JJR ones on off-road race "trucks", if they don't break them, then I doubt I can!

its actually really hard to find wide 4 stud rims in the lower offsets and that will fit over 32caliper for under 2k unless i go for Rota's, but ive heard mix thing about them on the track.

I'm going to start using bolt-ons on my 32.

I've purchased a few different sets of JJR hudcentric ones, and am confident they're fine.

I know guys that use these JJR ones on off-road race "trucks", if they don't break them, then I doubt I can!

hmmm, thats good to know. ive seen the punishment those trucks get...

Ive used hub centric bolt on spacers in a khanacross before on on some quite.... erm.... bumpy grounds and everything was fine.

Ive also used 5 stud conversion spacers which worked well too.

As long as the hubcentric fits snug over the center bore and provides its own further bore you are ok.

Scrutineers may not like them but the cams manual allows you to use them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe but doubt it, when I jacked it up it was creaking in the j arm again. The inners are all good, I inspected them. Remember that also it did fix the problem but temporarily.
    • Could be the other bushes. The inners.
    • Once you lose the adjustable bushes, you have almost no adjustment at the front for anything that matters. You can only wind so master caster at the front, and ~7° is fine. You won't have choice of front camber. If you only have rear camber arms (ie, do not also have adjustable upper tension arms), you shouldn't change their length very much, because you will introduce bump steer. And, you will struggle to find a workshop that will be capable of doing all the adjustment work necessary to simultaneously achieve a decent rear camber number, get the toe right, and minimise bump steer. I would guess there's probably 8 hours of work there. So, stockish rear camber is fine. Although, keep in mind, that stock camber, by number value, does not mean stock arm length when the car is lowered. You will need to lengthen the RUCA to get back to stockish values and that will require the tension arm to be lengthened a little also. Without any other guidance, any change made to the RUCA should have the 2/3 of the same change made on the tension arm. But that is only a rough rule of thumb and the relationship might not remain linear across a wide range of adjustments. And it might not also be as close to minimum bump steer as you could achieve if you did the bump steer measurement and adjustment properly.
    • Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.
    • FD RX7 I would probably marry if legal R32 GTR is toughest NSX looks like it's made from leftover Prelude and Accord bits  
×
×
  • Create New...