Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm looking at updating my system, after the amp that was powering my speakers has died.

I'll be using the headunit that I already have, and the 12" Clarion sub I have as well.

This is what it will look like

Headunit: Pioneer FH-P800BT

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Pro...FH-P800BT?tab=B

Front Speakers: Alpine SPR-17S

http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=314

Rear Speakers: Alpine SPR-17C

http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=317

Speaker Amplifier: Alpine PDX-4.100

http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=307

Sub Amplifier: Alpine MRP-M500

http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=374

Will be listening to all types of music, but more rock/metal than anything else.

I'm thinking that it will all work together fairly well, but im no car audio expert so some other opinions would be great.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309201-what-do-you-think-of-this-setup/
Share on other sites

looks ok if its set up properly. if its not then it will be a waste. why alpine. there are better speakers out there for that kind of money. rainbow being one of them.

are you serious? alpine have one of the best names in car audio because they're quality products, that perform really well for the price. I'd like to see any brand match the achievements that alpine has made in its history. Companies like focal, rainbow, kicker, whatever, specialise in speakers and amplifiers, alpine specialise in a complete package, without compromise of quality.

however, the type r splits are excellent for young guys who just want a set of splits to flog the crap out of them, and show off. they make a solid midbass, and take a lot of punishment. Tweeters aren't real nice though.

i'd revise your selection and buy SPX-17REF for the front, SPS-600 for the rear, and a PDX-2.150 for the fronts, and a PDX-1.600 or 1.1000 for your woofers. rears arent important.

alpine do a pack for $799 that includes the SPX-17REF + PDX-2.150, about $500 off. Cheap as, i'd like to see any other brand match that SQ and amplifier quality for that price

they also do a pack that comes with a PDX-1.600 + SBR-S122V for $999, thats about $400 off. Ported sub box, can be a little boomy, but they make a lot of bass, only reason i dont have one, it wont fit in my boot.

you'd have matching amplifiers, that are small enough to hide under your seats, and still make decent power.

that pioneer unit you've picked isnt' available in australia as far as i know. so fat chance of warranty or backup support if you have problems.

Edited by Shiraz200SX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...