Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Catch Can Diy Installation

TR33GT-001

By TR33GT-001,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

^ factory breather joined, factory PCV still connected.

With the above setup, the catch can will only "catch/breathe" when there's positive pressure in the plenum. On VAC/idle/off boost the plenum will pull nearly all of oil vapours.

Yep! Sounds good to me. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

PickleNick
PickleNick

Hi bud, I am far from an expert on rb20dets as i have only worked on my rb25det but as best i understand they are the same for this DIY mod. as far as oil catch cans are concerned that one you have

D.I.Y. Mik
D.I.Y. Mik

Rb 20 det: note: pcv is located on the inlet plenum. Can $40, hose $12

Tobz
Tobz

Hey All, Know this is an old thread but thought i would add my own experiences to this as I am in the process of installing mine and found some products that may make this simpler. I've gone with

Posted Images

mattr33gtst Collaborator

mattr33gtst

Posted
Posted

Hey SAU Members.

The attached PDF file is a brief DIY guide to the installation of an D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as sold by Just Jap.

Hope it helps.

Hey mate! I followed your install on my S2 r33 GTST and I've had the catch can on there about 2 weeks now and what I don't understand is why my catch can is still empty?? Like literally nothing not one spec of oil? And I give it the berries every time I take it out

This worries me haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 years later...
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey All,

Know this is an old thread but thought i would add my own experiences to this as I am in the process of installing mine and found some products that may make this simpler. I've gone with a catch can with two inputs, one outlet. The inputs for the catch can are already AN-10 so no adapters needed and the output on the can is AN-12 so just need a simple AN-12 to AN-10 reducer.

I am in the process of purchasing the following:

1x Raceworks Catch Can - 3 Litre BLACK ALY-063BK

3 Metres x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Rubber Hose - AN-10

3 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends 90 Degree AN-10 (2 for the rocker covers, one for the top of the catch can)

2 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends - Straight AN-10 (for the catch can)

2 x Raceworks Male Flare Union AN-10  - RWF-815-10BK (for the inlet ports of the catch can)

1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)

1 x Franklin Engineering 10AN Rocker Cover Fittings for RB25 (2 in the pack with an installer)

 

Aim is to remove the two existing Rocker Cover barbs using some pliers (you tube has a guide on this) replace them with the new AN-10 adapters from Franklin engineering.

Will then add the two Raceworks 90 degree Push Lok fittings to the rocker cover and then connect those to the two inlet ports on the catch can. Will then run the 90 degree push lok fitting on the outlet port and run that to the stock fitting on the PCV.

 

Will post my experiences and pictures once complete


Toby

Edited by Tobz
Clarify
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted
On 27/08/2019 at 1:29 PM, Tobz said:

1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)

Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk

Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted

So parts have arrived. Turns out the top is an AN10 already so no need for any adaptors for the top

Here is a picture of the can with the top 90 degree connector at the top, front male to male connectors and the straight hose fittings.

On the side of the push in fittings for the engine and the 90 degree fittings for that. Also came with a little 3d printed cover to help knock the push fittings in

20190905_201448.jpg

20190905_201500.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Smitty2u Apprentice

Smitty2u

Posted
Posted
On 9/1/2019 at 9:01 PM, Tobz said:

Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk

Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!

Any update?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted
On 19/09/2019 at 9:40 AM, Smitty2u said:

Any update?

Yep! I think I went to big with the catch can and can't find anywhere to mount it. Trying to decide whether to get a smaller can or relocate the battery.... But the concept is sound and all the parts fit, so if you went with the 1l can it wouldn't be an issue

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
On 9/21/2019 at 5:58 PM, Tobz said:

Yep! I think I went to big with the catch can and can't find anywhere to mount it. Trying to decide whether to get a smaller can or relocate the battery.... But the concept is sound and all the parts fit, so if you went with the 1l can it wouldn't be an issue

Its a serious looking unit - keep it and relocate the battery to the boot...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...