Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ factory breather joined, factory PCV still connected.

With the above setup, the catch can will only "catch/breathe" when there's positive pressure in the plenum. On VAC/idle/off boost the plenum will pull nearly all of oil vapours.

Yep! Sounds good to me. :thumbsup:

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey SAU Members.

The attached PDF file is a brief DIY guide to the installation of an D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as sold by Just Jap.

Hope it helps.

Hey mate! I followed your install on my S2 r33 GTST and I've had the catch can on there about 2 weeks now and what I don't understand is why my catch can is still empty?? Like literally nothing not one spec of oil? And I give it the berries every time I take it out

This worries me haha

  • 5 years later...

Hey All,

Know this is an old thread but thought i would add my own experiences to this as I am in the process of installing mine and found some products that may make this simpler. I've gone with a catch can with two inputs, one outlet. The inputs for the catch can are already AN-10 so no adapters needed and the output on the can is AN-12 so just need a simple AN-12 to AN-10 reducer.

I am in the process of purchasing the following:

1x Raceworks Catch Can - 3 Litre BLACK ALY-063BK

3 Metres x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Rubber Hose - AN-10

3 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends 90 Degree AN-10 (2 for the rocker covers, one for the top of the catch can)

2 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends - Straight AN-10 (for the catch can)

2 x Raceworks Male Flare Union AN-10  - RWF-815-10BK (for the inlet ports of the catch can)

1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)

1 x Franklin Engineering 10AN Rocker Cover Fittings for RB25 (2 in the pack with an installer)

 

Aim is to remove the two existing Rocker Cover barbs using some pliers (you tube has a guide on this) replace them with the new AN-10 adapters from Franklin engineering.

Will then add the two Raceworks 90 degree Push Lok fittings to the rocker cover and then connect those to the two inlet ports on the catch can. Will then run the 90 degree push lok fitting on the outlet port and run that to the stock fitting on the PCV.

 

Will post my experiences and pictures once complete


Toby

Edited by Tobz
Clarify
  • Like 1
On 27/08/2019 at 1:29 PM, Tobz said:

1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)

Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk

Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!

So parts have arrived. Turns out the top is an AN10 already so no need for any adaptors for the top

Here is a picture of the can with the top 90 degree connector at the top, front male to male connectors and the straight hose fittings.

On the side of the push in fittings for the engine and the 90 degree fittings for that. Also came with a little 3d printed cover to help knock the push fittings in

20190905_201448.jpg

20190905_201500.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/1/2019 at 9:01 PM, Tobz said:

Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk

Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!

Any update?

On 19/09/2019 at 9:40 AM, Smitty2u said:

Any update?

Yep! I think I went to big with the catch can and can't find anywhere to mount it. Trying to decide whether to get a smaller can or relocate the battery.... But the concept is sound and all the parts fit, so if you went with the 1l can it wouldn't be an issue

On 9/21/2019 at 5:58 PM, Tobz said:

Yep! I think I went to big with the catch can and can't find anywhere to mount it. Trying to decide whether to get a smaller can or relocate the battery.... But the concept is sound and all the parts fit, so if you went with the 1l can it wouldn't be an issue

Its a serious looking unit - keep it and relocate the battery to the boot...

  • Like 1
On 22/09/2019 at 8:24 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

Its a serious looking unit - keep it and relocate the battery to the boot...

Have taken your advice and will relocate! Im going to the wreckers on the weekend to pick up an R33 rear battery tray so it can look all nice and stock :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...