Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ factory breather joined, factory PCV still connected.

With the above setup, the catch can will only "catch/breathe" when there's positive pressure in the plenum. On VAC/idle/off boost the plenum will pull nearly all of oil vapours.

Yep! Sounds good to me. :thumbsup:

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey SAU Members.

The attached PDF file is a brief DIY guide to the installation of an D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as sold by Just Jap.

Hope it helps.

Hey mate! I followed your install on my S2 r33 GTST and I've had the catch can on there about 2 weeks now and what I don't understand is why my catch can is still empty?? Like literally nothing not one spec of oil? And I give it the berries every time I take it out

This worries me haha

  • 5 years later...

Hey All,

Know this is an old thread but thought i would add my own experiences to this as I am in the process of installing mine and found some products that may make this simpler. I've gone with a catch can with two inputs, one outlet. The inputs for the catch can are already AN-10 so no adapters needed and the output on the can is AN-12 so just need a simple AN-12 to AN-10 reducer.

I am in the process of purchasing the following:

1x Raceworks Catch Can - 3 Litre BLACK ALY-063BK

3 Metres x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Rubber Hose - AN-10

3 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends 90 Degree AN-10 (2 for the rocker covers, one for the top of the catch can)

2 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends - Straight AN-10 (for the catch can)

2 x Raceworks Male Flare Union AN-10  - RWF-815-10BK (for the inlet ports of the catch can)

1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)

1 x Franklin Engineering 10AN Rocker Cover Fittings for RB25 (2 in the pack with an installer)

 

Aim is to remove the two existing Rocker Cover barbs using some pliers (you tube has a guide on this) replace them with the new AN-10 adapters from Franklin engineering.

Will then add the two Raceworks 90 degree Push Lok fittings to the rocker cover and then connect those to the two inlet ports on the catch can. Will then run the 90 degree push lok fitting on the outlet port and run that to the stock fitting on the PCV.

 

Will post my experiences and pictures once complete


Toby

Edited by Tobz
Clarify
  • Like 1
On 27/08/2019 at 1:29 PM, Tobz said:

1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)

Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk

Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!

So parts have arrived. Turns out the top is an AN10 already so no need for any adaptors for the top

Here is a picture of the can with the top 90 degree connector at the top, front male to male connectors and the straight hose fittings.

On the side of the push in fittings for the engine and the 90 degree fittings for that. Also came with a little 3d printed cover to help knock the push fittings in

20190905_201448.jpg

20190905_201500.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/1/2019 at 9:01 PM, Tobz said:

Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk

Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!

Any update?

On 19/09/2019 at 9:40 AM, Smitty2u said:

Any update?

Yep! I think I went to big with the catch can and can't find anywhere to mount it. Trying to decide whether to get a smaller can or relocate the battery.... But the concept is sound and all the parts fit, so if you went with the 1l can it wouldn't be an issue

On 9/21/2019 at 5:58 PM, Tobz said:

Yep! I think I went to big with the catch can and can't find anywhere to mount it. Trying to decide whether to get a smaller can or relocate the battery.... But the concept is sound and all the parts fit, so if you went with the 1l can it wouldn't be an issue

Its a serious looking unit - keep it and relocate the battery to the boot...

  • Like 1
On 22/09/2019 at 8:24 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

Its a serious looking unit - keep it and relocate the battery to the boot...

Have taken your advice and will relocate! Im going to the wreckers on the weekend to pick up an R33 rear battery tray so it can look all nice and stock :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...