Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

It's not a Skyline but just in case anyone is interested.

Car has 155xxx on the clock. Auto. Complete engine. Good interior.

Pics are here

Location is Imlach's self-serve wreckers, Centre Rd, Springvale, VIC.

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309516-spotted-in-imlachs-vic-datsun-280c/
Share on other sites

God damn those things are ugly

For sure, those wraparound indicators and the small window in the rear pillar remind me of the Lincoln Continental (US car, big enough to have a tennis court in the boot). Still see a few 2 door Lincolns around in Melbourne.

In regards to the 280C, I thought the low-mileage engine might be of interest. I assume it's an L28.

JH

For sure, those wraparound indicators and the small window in the rear pillar remind me of the Lincoln Continental (US car, big enough to have a tennis court in the boot). Still see a few 2 door Lincolns around in Melbourne.

In regards to the 280C, I thought the low-mileage engine might be of interest. I assume it's an L28.

JH

Yep should be an L28. I pulled an engine from one of these once. Its still up at my old's place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...