Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not the informeter, there is no input for it. I do all my logging with the Emanage Ultimate, wideband included, then I send the log to my tuner who rings me back and tells me if I need a re-tune after each mod. lol.

According to this link you spice the wideband in the pink wire on the infometer.

  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Very nice find, I haven't seen that before. Might be a better gauge than the innovative one I use...

Well I've got one on order and it would be a bonus if this works (no reason to believe it doesn't). Pink must be an analogue input but I am not sure it's left free if you run the sensor adaptor also. Though having looked thsi picture of the wiring set-up it looks like the pink is still available even with the three external sensors = possible win.

16401702_1.jpg

Yeh, I have the external sensors all plugged in, which means I cant run the serial connection to the Emanage. I cant remember offhand if the pink wire was free.

I wonder if there are any other sensors I can plug in...

i wish i could get it to dim at night time. or when my headlights are on.

anyone know that one?

Mine doesn't dim either, so I just reduced the backlight to around 30%. Still fine in the day, and much better at night.

Hey quick question to all. How hot water temp is to hot. Hit 99 today in traffic and got little worried as I set alarm at 97. Air intake was at 76 :S

Mine does this also, in fact; those are the exact same peak numbers as on my Informeter. It's not nice to look at, but before you had the Informeter it was exactly the same; you just didn't know it.:whistling:

You have to understand this isn't an HQ holden, these engines are designed to run in the mid 80's minimum.

Modern engines run tight tolerances and the running temperatures reflect that, higher engine running temperatures also promote better emissions (notwithstanding the rich/retard things cars do when the weather gets really hot).

My last Honda road bike (CBR 929RR) had a digital temp gauge; running temp was 89 deg, would routinely run out to 106 deg, fan would come on drop it to 98 deg. I once rode it on a 47 deg day with a pillion, with the temp gauge sitting on 102 deg for 5 hours. I did 75000km on this bike and when I sold it it went EXACTLY the same as the day I bought it. Most Honda road cars, the optimum running temp is 90 -95 deg, it's just a number.

The cooling system is under pressure (10- 15psi is normal), water does not boil at 100 deg if it is pressurised. (I think the rule of thumb is an extra degree for every psi of pressure)

As Cephas says; the thing to worry about, is if the car doesn't cool down once you're moving (more than 70km/h). This means the cooling system, or the volume of water in the system is inadequate for the purpose.

Of course, any amount of heat you can remove from the syatem is a good thing (i.e external oil or trans cooler ducted AWAY from the radiator) just gives more headroom for the system to operate in extreme conditions.

Edited by Daleo

mines hit 107 before in hot weather with the AC on. this was stop start traffic

lately its been around 90-99 in stop start. once im moving at 60km it drops back to mid 80s. im not so worried anymore now other people are having similar numbers. i also have a nismo thermostat which i think was a stock one in a nismo box

Yeah. I average near 90 on hotter days. Hit 99 and got worried so took back roads where I wash sitting still and dropped to 94-95. Air temp was high 60's still though.

Need standard airbox! Any body know where I can get one without selling my liver?

Yeah. I average near 90 on hotter days. Hit 99 and got worried so took back roads where I wash sitting still and dropped to 94-95. Air temp was high 60's still though.

Need standard airbox! Any body know where I can get one without selling my liver?

Got to 101 in traffic....intake temp got up to 79!!!!

Talk to zei20l.....pretty sure he has a spare standard airbox!

Ok I thought it was just me with high intake temps. As when I opened the bonnet it dropped 5 degrees within seconds. Also driving with bonnet open shows marked improvement with my crappy pod. But cant drive with the bonnet open around streets.

Can anyone with a leaf screen AND an informeter comment on the fuel consumption readouts from the informeter? Mine seem to be so far wrong its comical (Im assuming the leaf screen is accurate - Ive never heard reports to the contrary)

Well it depends on how often you reset your informeter. My average is quite accurate with leaf but trip is a little off. Haven't really tested it though. I find the actual leave compared to the currant usage on inform to be the same.

But my throttle seems never to go below 10% lol dunno why

Can anyone with a leaf screen AND an informeter comment on the fuel consumption readouts from the informeter? Mine seem to be so far wrong its comical (Im assuming the leaf screen is accurate - Ive never heard reports to the contrary)

lol I purposly didnt set these up, and the leaf screen i shut off.

250k per FULL tank is not something you wanna see lmao

Edited by AaronNM35

lol... that's 2 days to work and back for me!

I dunno how you put up with it mate

well everytime i try to get a tune onto it, i either get exited and find something else i wanna do first.

or my turbo blows lol

Because its stuck in my shed with no turbo. Cheap to run if you dont drive it. lol.

^^ and that.

Scott wish shayne for me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...