Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not the informeter, there is no input for it. I do all my logging with the Emanage Ultimate, wideband included, then I send the log to my tuner who rings me back and tells me if I need a re-tune after each mod. lol.

According to this link you spice the wideband in the pink wire on the infometer.

  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Very nice find, I haven't seen that before. Might be a better gauge than the innovative one I use...

Well I've got one on order and it would be a bonus if this works (no reason to believe it doesn't). Pink must be an analogue input but I am not sure it's left free if you run the sensor adaptor also. Though having looked thsi picture of the wiring set-up it looks like the pink is still available even with the three external sensors = possible win.

16401702_1.jpg

Yeh, I have the external sensors all plugged in, which means I cant run the serial connection to the Emanage. I cant remember offhand if the pink wire was free.

I wonder if there are any other sensors I can plug in...

i wish i could get it to dim at night time. or when my headlights are on.

anyone know that one?

Mine doesn't dim either, so I just reduced the backlight to around 30%. Still fine in the day, and much better at night.

Hey quick question to all. How hot water temp is to hot. Hit 99 today in traffic and got little worried as I set alarm at 97. Air intake was at 76 :S

Mine does this also, in fact; those are the exact same peak numbers as on my Informeter. It's not nice to look at, but before you had the Informeter it was exactly the same; you just didn't know it.:whistling:

You have to understand this isn't an HQ holden, these engines are designed to run in the mid 80's minimum.

Modern engines run tight tolerances and the running temperatures reflect that, higher engine running temperatures also promote better emissions (notwithstanding the rich/retard things cars do when the weather gets really hot).

My last Honda road bike (CBR 929RR) had a digital temp gauge; running temp was 89 deg, would routinely run out to 106 deg, fan would come on drop it to 98 deg. I once rode it on a 47 deg day with a pillion, with the temp gauge sitting on 102 deg for 5 hours. I did 75000km on this bike and when I sold it it went EXACTLY the same as the day I bought it. Most Honda road cars, the optimum running temp is 90 -95 deg, it's just a number.

The cooling system is under pressure (10- 15psi is normal), water does not boil at 100 deg if it is pressurised. (I think the rule of thumb is an extra degree for every psi of pressure)

As Cephas says; the thing to worry about, is if the car doesn't cool down once you're moving (more than 70km/h). This means the cooling system, or the volume of water in the system is inadequate for the purpose.

Of course, any amount of heat you can remove from the syatem is a good thing (i.e external oil or trans cooler ducted AWAY from the radiator) just gives more headroom for the system to operate in extreme conditions.

Edited by Daleo

mines hit 107 before in hot weather with the AC on. this was stop start traffic

lately its been around 90-99 in stop start. once im moving at 60km it drops back to mid 80s. im not so worried anymore now other people are having similar numbers. i also have a nismo thermostat which i think was a stock one in a nismo box

Yeah. I average near 90 on hotter days. Hit 99 and got worried so took back roads where I wash sitting still and dropped to 94-95. Air temp was high 60's still though.

Need standard airbox! Any body know where I can get one without selling my liver?

Yeah. I average near 90 on hotter days. Hit 99 and got worried so took back roads where I wash sitting still and dropped to 94-95. Air temp was high 60's still though.

Need standard airbox! Any body know where I can get one without selling my liver?

Got to 101 in traffic....intake temp got up to 79!!!!

Talk to zei20l.....pretty sure he has a spare standard airbox!

Ok I thought it was just me with high intake temps. As when I opened the bonnet it dropped 5 degrees within seconds. Also driving with bonnet open shows marked improvement with my crappy pod. But cant drive with the bonnet open around streets.

Can anyone with a leaf screen AND an informeter comment on the fuel consumption readouts from the informeter? Mine seem to be so far wrong its comical (Im assuming the leaf screen is accurate - Ive never heard reports to the contrary)

Well it depends on how often you reset your informeter. My average is quite accurate with leaf but trip is a little off. Haven't really tested it though. I find the actual leave compared to the currant usage on inform to be the same.

But my throttle seems never to go below 10% lol dunno why

Can anyone with a leaf screen AND an informeter comment on the fuel consumption readouts from the informeter? Mine seem to be so far wrong its comical (Im assuming the leaf screen is accurate - Ive never heard reports to the contrary)

lol I purposly didnt set these up, and the leaf screen i shut off.

250k per FULL tank is not something you wanna see lmao

Edited by AaronNM35

lol... that's 2 days to work and back for me!

I dunno how you put up with it mate

well everytime i try to get a tune onto it, i either get exited and find something else i wanna do first.

or my turbo blows lol

Because its stuck in my shed with no turbo. Cheap to run if you dont drive it. lol.

^^ and that.

Scott wish shayne for me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...