Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you wanna do? Play mp3s on 4 x 10" subs with 6" splits and 6" rears or factory speakers? What features do you want? What do u want it to do? What features would u like to avoid? What quality mp3s (bitrate) do you plan on playing?

I've got a Alpine CDX-9807 and its a great unit, albiet its worth $500 odd. Plays mp3s good, however please go for 192kbps (bare minimum) if you are playing mp3s on good splits and subs. If its just the stock speakers then 128kbps is OK I guess. Your call :P

Why Sony?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30969-purchasing-a-deck/#findComment-625673
Share on other sites

its a great looking HU, ive seen it in action.

only negative thing i think is its not detachable face, u get some crappy little plastic cover that sits over ur HU and anyone with half a brain knows its still there and its something worth covering up

but apart from that, wonderful HU for its price and packed wit hfeatures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30969-purchasing-a-deck/#findComment-625819
Share on other sites

CDX-M800

I have this model sitting at home, the only difference from the CDX-850MP is that it dosn't support mp3's.

brand new

Remote

manual

etc etc etc

still have box but its damaged

RRP at sony.com.au is 899, will sell for 700ono

have pics if you want

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30969-purchasing-a-deck/#findComment-625826
Share on other sites

I didn't read it was 192kbps. I'm just saying if you play 128kbps mp3s it will sound terrible. 192kbps bare minimum I would recommend and they even sound a bit average of good splits/subs

panasonic cq-df983w plays 320kbps mode 1 mp3

---

what is the k-lite aux input on the sony? what does k-lite stand for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30969-purchasing-a-deck/#findComment-627758
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...