Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas, wondering if anyone you know of in Perth stocks HICAS lock bars to suit R32?

Ive found out I can get one via QLD from Niteworks Performance but if i could get one early next week in the perth area that would be better.

Anyone point me in the right direction? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309700-where-to-get-hicas-lock-bar-perth/
Share on other sites

30mins on the hoist for mine (including smoke breaks), the longest/hardest part was knocking the ball joints out.

I didn't bother removing all of the HICAS shit to begin with, I just looped the lines at the back of the car (only for R32's) and removed the rest of the stuff when the engine was next out.

Edited by bubba

It actually makes it feel less tail happy and more stable as the backend isn't trying to do its' own thing (particularly when sideways).

I'm happy the Stag didn't have it from the factory! :P

Edited by bubba
It actually makes it feel less tail happy and more stable as the backend isn't trying to do its' own thing (particularly when sideways).

I'm happy the Stag didn't have it from the factory! :P

I think he meant that it is less likely to step out w/ the HICAS working right?

The other alternative to a hicas lockbar is a S13 non hicas rear cradle, and some aftermarket toe rods.

It will set you back a bit more ($150-$200 for cradle & $100 - $250 for toe rods). But the advantage is that it looks alot neater, gives you more adjustment and tightens the backend allot more. This is because often the hicas rubber bush thingys that you bolt the lock bar to are pretty flogged out and create allot of slop.

And while your at it, you can always throw some solid cradle bushes into the mix ^_^

Got me Lock bar VIA NiteWorks so I'll get around to putting it on later today.

Had a look under the rear yesterday on the hoist and it looks fairly simple. Hopefully

Just seeing if I can loop these lines pictured below so I can remove the lines that run the length of the car?

P3030621.jpg

I think he meant that it is less likely to step out w/ the HICAS working right?

Kind of.. HICAS is there to essentially induce understeer if a corner is taken too fast, as understeer was deemed safer for novice drivers.

The other alternative to a hicas lockbar is a S13 non hicas rear cradle, and some aftermarket toe rods.

It will set you back a bit more ($150-$200 for cradle & $100 - $250 for toe rods). But the advantage is that it looks alot neater, gives you more adjustment and tightens the backend allot more. This is because often the hicas rubber bush thingys that you bolt the lock bar to are pretty flogged out and create allot of slop.

And while your at it, you can always throw some solid cradle bushes into the mix ^_^

Rubber bushes?? IIRC mine bolted straight the the subframe with no rubber bushes of any kind.

Got me Lock bar VIA NiteWorks so I'll get around to putting it on later today.

Had a look under the rear yesterday on the hoist and it looks fairly simple. Hopefully

Just seeing if I can loop these lines pictured below so I can remove the lines that run the length of the car?

I looped mine at the resevoir.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...