Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could never in my life own a Commodore, the R32 Gtst was the first car I ever bought and will be the last car I ever own.

I would not even notice giving up 1000rpm to lag as it starts pulling hard from about 2300 with the current standard turbo, and as you said, 4 grand to the limit is where the fun starts. I would rather the car have more than what I will be using just not to really stress any part of the chain of parts, so say if my final power figure is 300hp I want the parts capable of doing 350hp, just so everything isnt stressed or running at its limits.

I'm not chasing punch in the face power when I put my foot down but more of a user friendly power curve. I would love to go the Mines route of builds i.e not excessive power but the tune and the general setup and and parts used make for a very quick responsive ride.

so your saying youve never owned, or will own, anything but your r32??

have a bit of fun with your 32, but you need to experience (and i dont mean a quick drive) all that many other cars have to offer before you can decide if one is right for you.. i love my r32.. and im having fun building it.. but im glad i owned 2 V8 holdens to really appreciate how good skylines are.

Spent alot of time in many other cars, some faster some than handle better but I would still prefer my R32, Had a hold of a 430rwhp 2005 BS XR8 for 2 months but still loved the R32 more. Even though the Xr8 was much faster and a better ride.

But as far as owning cars goes...the R32 is it. I have a Yamaha R6 but thats just silly fast after the build.

Some people have lambos and Zondas as their 'dream' car. Mine is the R32 Skyline.

I'm in the same boat... I've had my 32 for 11 years now, and I can't see myself replacing it.

Thats how I feel man and I've only had my baby for 2 years, I dont see what I would want other than the 32, Timeless style, a impressive heritage behind them and you cant beat the sound of the RB's screaming onto boost.

I'm in the same boat... I've had my 32 for 11 years now, and I can't see myself replacing it.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

I also have an RB20 running a HKS2530, 210kw @16psi on a very tired engine. Just make sure you upgrade your fuel system and intercooler and you should get similar results.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

Yeah the only things I can think of that are still original (from 1991) aside from the chassis, are the gearbox, boot, rear bar, fuel tank, doors, glass, carpet, dash, headlights and foglights.

11 years?!!? sheeesh i reckon you must have pretty much replaced everything in the car by now haha

respect

ive got a r32 rb20 with hks2530. Pushing 210kw atw @ 15psi

Full boost comes in around 3800rpm.

Any chance of a bit of a write up on what you currently have done to your baby?

(like another import owner needs an excuse to give a detailed list of mods :down: )

I know you weren't talking to me but this might help.

Unopened RB20DET

HKS2530

GTR Injectors

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Z32 AFM

Cooling Pro Intercooler

210rwkw on 16psi, not run on shootout mode so not sure how it compares to other dynos.

Full boost around 3800-4000rpm depending on when foot goes flat to the floor.

Any chance of a bit of a write up on what you currently have done to your baby?

(like another import owner needs an excuse to give a detailed list of mods :down: )

- Rebuilt HKS2530 Series 2 turbo

- ARC SideMount Intercooler

- R32 GTR Fuel Pump

- r32 GTR Cleaned injectors with new seals

- GTR Resistor Ballast

- Batmbl (Bos Importing) Stainless steel split front/dump pipe

- xforce hiflow cat

- Apexi catback

- z32 AFM

- Splitfire Coilpacks

- Nistune Ecu tuned by Status Tuning (208.9kw atw @ 15psi with 11.5afr)

thanks man, is that the daily run tune or the result just for the dyno run?

Also love the Drift Teks in the siggy (at least I think they are drift teks), then again they could be Rota P45R's or something else I cant think of.

What the offset on them? They look very nice like that.

(Sorry for al the questions guys, just trying to get as much info on everything before I start laying down more cash)

thanks man, is that the daily run tune or the result just for the dyno run?

Also love the Drift Teks in the siggy (at least I think they are drift teks), then again they could be Rota P45R's or something else I cant think of.

What the offset on them? They look very nice like that.

(Sorry for al the questions guys, just trying to get as much info on everything before I start laying down more cash)

they are neither. They are Uras NS-01, drifteks and rota's are some china spec quality. I like to think uras (being a jap company) put more effort in the quality haha

They are 8inch +30 on front and 9inch +30 on rear

Its my daily run tune, quite safe as its low boost and 11.5afr.

Ah another sick looking 5 spoke to put onto my list lol

ATM I'm looking at the ever popular R33 GTR rims, I dont want anything over 17 inch and as far as I know they fit in perfect without any clearance issues, Not sure of the exact offset of them, Ive read a heap of differnt numbers from +22 to +30

Thankts Kwyjibo, seems like a very good result from reading the RB20 Turbo thread. Hows the cooling pro FMIC treating you? and would you happen to know what the duty cycle of the GTR injectors were on that run.

Yeah I can't complain, its quite good to drive. The FMIC has been fine for my purposes, was easy to install as well. We had some knocking issues that we thought were due to heatsoak but have now eliminated that as a problem. I think injector duty hits around 70% at full load/high revs.

I should also note I have an HKS dump pipe and Power FC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...