Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone i have a commodore ute that i have put a rb25det in and i was wondering if any one on here new how to wire some of the wires up so i can turn the key and it starts, and if any one out there has a vl manual tailshaft only thing i need for it to be complete besides the wiring. here are so photos

post-70779-1267271611_thumb.jpg

post-70779-1267271640_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309995-rb25det-in-my-commdore-ute/
Share on other sites

here are a few diagrams i used on my 32 conversion.

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...rb25-wiring.jpg

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/thum...ECU_Pinouts.jpg

series one or series two loom?

pm me if your close i can come round give you an insight.

haha thanks guys its been fun up untill this part, im so close to finishing it just the place i live no sparky will touch it. pritty gay cant be that hard its been done before.

where are you located? i think there is someone in gympie doing this but into a vs ute (if i remember correctly). i think he has been speaking to my mate who is a mechanic about doing the wiring.

and love the 33 front bar on the commodore. boy will that piss off some nissan fansboys.

yer man i have made up brackets since the cable ties haha as i said thos photos are the early stages, but still cable ties are consider road worthlyable in these parts lol

mounting the engine isn't that hard as with the older cars you could just use a a vl crossmember, etc. wiring on the other hand....

also with a vu ute you may have issues with legality of putting in the rb25 as i'm not sure how it goes as far as putting an older motor into a newer car. i'm pretty sure that the motor has to meet all emissions standards of when the car was made. so it's easy to put a new motor into an old car, but not the other way round.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...