Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm trying to install a new satnav head unit into my car, but have a few issues that are cropping up and hoping the guru's here could help me out.

Firstly, where can I find the reversing lamp wire for the reverse gear input? Is it located on the passenger side or drivers side footwells?

Secondly, when connecting the speed sensor input, the manual doesn't specify what sort of signal is required and the ecu signal is different from the dash speedo signal, which one do I use? Would either one cause issues?

Lastly, I wired everything else up and went to test the system, no issues other than there is no sound coming through the speakers... before I go ripping apart all the soldering that's been done, there are a couple things that I thought might have caused the issue. I'm not 100% sure the grounding point I used (I used the metal bracketing behind the dash), is there a better place to use a ground point or would this even be the trouble with this? The head unit also has no input for "Amplifier on" in the wiring harness, so I blanked out that wire coming from the aerpro harness. I'm guessing this is the most likely cause of the problem, but I've scoured the device manual and it has no mention of any wiring to connect this particular wire to.

Anyone able to give some advice on these?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310049-r34-stereo-install-questions/
Share on other sites

Hi all, I'm trying to install a new satnav head unit into my car, but have a few issues that are cropping up and hoping the guru's here could help me out.

Firstly, where can I find the reversing lamp wire for the reverse gear input? Is it located on the passenger side or drivers side footwells? Usualy runs from the gearbox to the boot

Secondly, when connecting the speed sensor input, the manual doesn't specify what sort of signal is required and the ecu signal is different from the dash speedo signal, which one do I use? Would either one cause issues? hmm curly one , what model satnav??

Lastly, I wired everything else up and went to test the system, no issues other than there is no sound coming through the speakers... before I go ripping apart all the soldering that's been done, there are a couple things that I thought might have caused the issue. I'm not 100% sure the grounding point I used (I used the metal bracketing behind the dash) OK in my 33 but test with a multimeter, is there a better place to use a ground point or would this even be the trouble with this? The head unit also has no input think you mean output here, use antenna triger instead for "Amplifier on" in the wiring harness, so I blanked out that wire coming from the aerpro harness. I'm guessing this is the most likely cause of the problem, but I've scoured the device manual and it has no mention of any wiring to connect this particular wire to.

Anyone able to give some advice on these?

cheerz

that will do part of it. the rev wire is on the drivers side. as for no sound - if its an R34 and you have the holographic sound system - its AMPLIFIED! now hopefully you DID NOT butcher the harness. if so you haev screwed yourself. (I know the positions but not the wiring.)

cheerz

Cheers :down:

Any idea if the wire in the cabin or under the car?

The satnav is a AVIC-F900BT

Whoops I meant output. Bit more info about what's on the harness below:

Macross

just stumbled on 2 this might help

Linky bit

I did have a look at this but was unsure with how to pull the fusebox out, so wanted to check if there was another method. Will take a gander around the rev wire to see what I can swing.

that will do part of it. the rev wire is on the drivers side. as for no sound - if its an R34 and you have the holographic sound system - its AMPLIFIED! now hopefully you DID NOT butcher the harness. if so you haev screwed yourself. (I know the positions but not the wiring.)

Definately haven't butchered the wiring harness as anything I was unsure about I simply used some shrink wrap to cap off the end of the wire. Stupidly, I just realised my mistake, when I was wiring up the harness everything matched up perfectly, except for the amplifier on wire (which I mentioned I capped off) however there is a second harness (with rca plugs) that has a "system remote control" wire, which I can now see is used to power up the amp, so I can see where to connect that wire to now.

Cheers for the help all :)

Macross

there doesn't seem 2 be much solid info on these satnavz, seem to have lots of begs though

given that the speed wire is a signal rather than power I'd expect less that 100mA current flow,

therefore you should be safe if you put a 100mA or similar fuse inline with the speed sig (I'd start with the ecu signal - easy access)

cheerz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...